July 20th
What a misty morning in the enchanted land of Peru! As I walked the streets this morning on my way to morning mass, the street cleaners were out in full force. Dressed in red and yellow uniforms, the men scoured the sidewalks pushing the scraps of paper and old cigarette butts off the curb with their odd shaped brooms. This was followed by a wash and scrubbing as the street sweepers followed up and sucked up the remaining scrapes. Mexico should take a lesson from the Peruvians and organize a band of men to do this task in their large cities. Jorge should suggest this to someone of importance! We boarded the bus with a whole group of people from the Fulbright Commission in Peru. Henry Harman Guerra and his wife joined us along with Marcela´s mother. The other ladies and their families were so helpful and considerate as we traveled to Pacha Camac Archaeological site. There we were told by our guide several times that the Lima people were the first to settle this area from 0-600 AD. Then came the WARI here in 600-900 while in the highlands it was the Moche that lived during this same period. The Ischma lived at Pacha Camac from 900-1470 and finally came the Inca in 1470-1533.
Pacha (Earth) Camac (Creator) means Creator of the Earth.
It was the Inca that Pizarro met when he bravely walked into the immense city covered in red painted or achote adobe. By the time we all climbed to the top of the Temple to the Sun, we could see the brilliant view that Pizarro saw as he landed on the coast. It was only a short walk from the sea to the city and the Inca could definitely see him coming! As I looked out at that foggy sea on this winter Sunday south of the Equator, I tried to visualize the scene. A few hundred bearded conquistadors dressed in silver colored armor marching in a straight line towards the hilltop fortress, while thousands of Inca looked on. What did they think? Why did they surrender so easily and accept what Pizarro said and did without a fight? What would have happened if the Inca had decided to attack? It was in 1533 that this happened and the Spaniards simply walked bravely up the main road to the temple. Then they took the idol of Pachacamac (who has two faces one for the past and one for the present), broke it in half, and replaced it with a wooden cross.
In the Lima period there were finger prints on the adobe and it was built using the bookshelf construction. We learned that this was a great way to prevent collapse during an earthquake. In the Ischma period they built the adobe using molds, so there are no finger prints.
Next we went down to see the MAMACUNA. These were reconstructed homes for the women who would be sacrificed, become concubines of the Inca, or become the teachers of future women in the temple. The woman had to be virgins and if a man entered the area he would be killed. So you could say anyway you look at it these woman were screwed!
We drove through the poorer areas of Lima and saw the shanty construction of the squatters. Then we went to eat at a fabulous place with a horse show and dance. The Peruvian Pace horses pranced around the green while we were served delicious yucca appetizers and pisco (a kind of drink that tastes a lot like a whiskey sour). Some in the group, including me, got up the courage to ride these beautiful horses. We ate causa, potatoes and filling made in layers. Then we had lomosaltado, potatoes and beef with tomatoes. Then we learned that in Peru there are 1200 different types of potato dishes.
Carole gave us a list of the highlights of the trip so far. She is funny, everyday she remarks, "Well this might just be one of the highlights.."
1. The chicken ceremony with candles at San Juan de Chamula.
2. Any bench she can find along the way to sit on.
3. Xochilico boat ride, actually all boat rides, train rides, and bus rides.
4. The catacombs in Peru at the Franciscan Monastery.
5. Jorge laughing with Maryann or anyone.
6. Prancing Horses.
7. Dancing Kids.
8. Quinceinero in San Cristobal Cathedral.
9. Shopping through the bus window.
10. Coca light!
We ended the day doing our own thing. Carole, Diane and I went to Santo Domingo to see the relics of Saint Rose of Lima and Saint Martin de Porres by taxi. Then Nelson, our driver, took us to shop at the Inka Market while he waited for us in the car. Everyday is another adventure! Above is the group at the luncheon on the grass, and Carole holding flat Stanley in front of the dancers. The last picture is of the house of the Women at Pachacamac.
What a misty morning in the enchanted land of Peru! As I walked the streets this morning on my way to morning mass, the street cleaners were out in full force. Dressed in red and yellow uniforms, the men scoured the sidewalks pushing the scraps of paper and old cigarette butts off the curb with their odd shaped brooms. This was followed by a wash and scrubbing as the street sweepers followed up and sucked up the remaining scrapes. Mexico should take a lesson from the Peruvians and organize a band of men to do this task in their large cities. Jorge should suggest this to someone of importance! We boarded the bus with a whole group of people from the Fulbright Commission in Peru. Henry Harman Guerra and his wife joined us along with Marcela´s mother. The other ladies and their families were so helpful and considerate as we traveled to Pacha Camac Archaeological site. There we were told by our guide several times that the Lima people were the first to settle this area from 0-600 AD. Then came the WARI here in 600-900 while in the highlands it was the Moche that lived during this same period. The Ischma lived at Pacha Camac from 900-1470 and finally came the Inca in 1470-1533.
Pacha (Earth) Camac (Creator) means Creator of the Earth.
It was the Inca that Pizarro met when he bravely walked into the immense city covered in red painted or achote adobe. By the time we all climbed to the top of the Temple to the Sun, we could see the brilliant view that Pizarro saw as he landed on the coast. It was only a short walk from the sea to the city and the Inca could definitely see him coming! As I looked out at that foggy sea on this winter Sunday south of the Equator, I tried to visualize the scene. A few hundred bearded conquistadors dressed in silver colored armor marching in a straight line towards the hilltop fortress, while thousands of Inca looked on. What did they think? Why did they surrender so easily and accept what Pizarro said and did without a fight? What would have happened if the Inca had decided to attack? It was in 1533 that this happened and the Spaniards simply walked bravely up the main road to the temple. Then they took the idol of Pachacamac (who has two faces one for the past and one for the present), broke it in half, and replaced it with a wooden cross.
In the Lima period there were finger prints on the adobe and it was built using the bookshelf construction. We learned that this was a great way to prevent collapse during an earthquake. In the Ischma period they built the adobe using molds, so there are no finger prints.
Next we went down to see the MAMACUNA. These were reconstructed homes for the women who would be sacrificed, become concubines of the Inca, or become the teachers of future women in the temple. The woman had to be virgins and if a man entered the area he would be killed. So you could say anyway you look at it these woman were screwed!
We drove through the poorer areas of Lima and saw the shanty construction of the squatters. Then we went to eat at a fabulous place with a horse show and dance. The Peruvian Pace horses pranced around the green while we were served delicious yucca appetizers and pisco (a kind of drink that tastes a lot like a whiskey sour). Some in the group, including me, got up the courage to ride these beautiful horses. We ate causa, potatoes and filling made in layers. Then we had lomosaltado, potatoes and beef with tomatoes. Then we learned that in Peru there are 1200 different types of potato dishes.
Carole gave us a list of the highlights of the trip so far. She is funny, everyday she remarks, "Well this might just be one of the highlights.."
1. The chicken ceremony with candles at San Juan de Chamula.
2. Any bench she can find along the way to sit on.
3. Xochilico boat ride, actually all boat rides, train rides, and bus rides.
4. The catacombs in Peru at the Franciscan Monastery.
5. Jorge laughing with Maryann or anyone.
6. Prancing Horses.
7. Dancing Kids.
8. Quinceinero in San Cristobal Cathedral.
9. Shopping through the bus window.
10. Coca light!
We ended the day doing our own thing. Carole, Diane and I went to Santo Domingo to see the relics of Saint Rose of Lima and Saint Martin de Porres by taxi. Then Nelson, our driver, took us to shop at the Inka Market while he waited for us in the car. Everyday is another adventure! Above is the group at the luncheon on the grass, and Carole holding flat Stanley in front of the dancers. The last picture is of the house of the Women at Pachacamac.
Maryann
Crown Point
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