Machu Picchu - the lost city of the Incas - here we come! Ring-ring! The hotel 4:00 AM wake up call was actually a welcoming sound since this was the once in a lifetime experience we have all been anticipating. Isn't this one of the main reasons we applied for the Fulbright? After an early breakfast, our bus took us up, down and around many mountains until we finally arrived to catch our 6:40 train ride to Machu Picchu. It was on time but we started to panic when one of our participants who had stopped off to you know what (no, not shop!) had not arrived. Luckily, she found us at the last minute!
The train ride on the Peru Rail snaked along the Ollantaytamvo River with its white-water and huge boulders. It was off-set by the beautiful snow-covered jagged mountains that were on both sides. When we arrived, there were lots of tourists waiting in line for a bus to the top. It was a harrowing bus ride with the hairpin turns all the way up often nearly colliding with an oncoming bus causing the bus drivers to have to back up on a very narrow road. The driver claimed there are never any accidents but we weren't convinced! The upward journey just got more and more beautiful as the sheer mountains loomed all around us at 9,040 feet.
Machu Picchu is totally invisible from below but just before arriving I got a glimpse of the ruins on one of the hairpin turns and knew it was going to be magical. It was set among the clouds and it looked like it was going to be a rainy day afterall. Our tour guide, Eddie (short for Edilberto), provided us with lots of info about "his people" as helped us discover one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. Years ago, I remember reading in a National Geographic that the ruins of Machu Picchu were discovered in 1911 by a Yale archaeologist named Hiram Bingham. Evidently, Hiram had to pay some farm boy to show him the way to the ruins which were grown over with vegetation. Just think what a jungle of vegetation must have covered the buildings after 500 years of growth.
The Inca Empire lasted from 1430-1534, only about 100 years. The Inca people built the city of Machu Picchu by erecting hundreds of stone structures (234 to be exact). Machu Picchu (meaning "Old Peak" in Quechua language) was considered a sacred place evidently by those who came even before the Inca and was built with the help of the Incan Emperor Pachucutec. It must have taken thousands of workers over many years! Eddie stated that the Inca paid their tax to the Emperor through human energy or what we call hard labour.
We got a full tour of the palaces, baths, temples, storage rooms, workshops, terraces, and houses for the nobility. The buildings were carved from gray granite the Inca took from the mountain top. The climb up the steep narrow steps to some of the buildings was a struggle for some and as one of our English friends put it, "Machu Picchu is not for the weak of heart." The architectural feat is mind boggling since the building blocks used weigh some 50 tons or more yet are so precisely scupted that you can't even get a piece of paper between the joints. How did they work so precisely? I actually entertained the idea of the Inca being extraterrestial as some people believe?
There are many theories about the purpose or function of Machu Picchu - afterall, it's all speculation. What do you think? Was it an astronomical observatory, sacred ceremonial city for priests, a king's palace, place for coca leaf production, large guinea pig farm? No one can say for sure. What we do know is that the Spaniards never found Machu Picchu even though they had suspicions of its existence. We can all be thankful for that!
Machu Picchu definitely felt sacred or spiritual despite the overload of tourists. The Inca worshipped Mother Earth, the Sun, the Moon, Rain, Lightning, and Rainbows. They were extremely connected to the Earth and had ways to determine the two equinoxes and other celestial occurrences. The ancient Inca energy was omnipresent and with the people from every part of the globe, there was truly a "universal energy" present and flowing.
For future reference, if you plan to hike the Wayna Picchu make sure you get to the site by 7:00 AM since there is a limit of 400 people who can do the trail. Or you can be persist and return around lunchtime as three of our Fulbrighters did and made it up to the top in 45 minutes!
Today was truly a magical once in a lifetime experience (not for 3rd timer Brenda!) that we will always remember, thanks to the ancient Inca!
Posted by Lianne, Madison, WI
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Monday July 28
5:00 AM wake up knock. Yes, it was a knock, not a call. In Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica there are no TVs nor telephones and there is only limited electric light service in your elegantly rustic cabin. Our morning excursion would be to Lake Sandoval where we would hunt for exotic birds, river otters, turtles, and possibly black caymans.
To get to Lake Sandoval we first took the motor boat upstream to Tambopata National Reserve. We then walked approximately 2 kilometers to reach a canoe. Percy and Moises (our guides) rowed us out onto the lake to quietly observe the wildlife. We encountered many "stinky" birds, named so due to the fact they have no gizzard and seem to give off a foul smell. Moises indicated they are considered to be fairly prehistoric animals because the babies are born with claws on their wings. These claws help them to climb back up tree trunks to their nests after having jumped out. I understood they loose the claws as adults.
My favorite bird was the snake bird which slides through the water with just its thin neck and head showing. It will suddenly submerge and reappear with only a slight ripple in the surface of the lake. It was a beautiful tranquil morning on the lake. We were a little disappointed to not observe the river otters but it was important to maintain distance from their den due to the fact this is breeding season. The morning ended with a entertaining jungle show. As we approached the dock for enter to the lodge, Moises observed the backside of a fairly large white cayman stuck in the mud. It was perfectly still and there was some discussion as to it being plastic and a "joke" placed on the river bank. Just as we were all convinced it couldn't be real, it pulled its head out of the mud, whipped around, and slid into the water. Nature at its best.
After lunch we tackled the famous canopy walk. This tour requires one to ascend over 100 meters up a tower to get a great look at the forest from above. It seems the tower was designed and constructed (with the help of the locals) by Chicago engineers. From here our guides pointed out the wide variety of trees found in a tropical forest and told us to keep on the lookout for monkeys and birds. We began our cautious walk across 7 swinging bridges at this height. Fortunately the day wasn't windy and the bridges only gently moved under our feet.
As you can imagine, walking across these narrow swinging bridges produced a case of high anxiety for most of us. Diane confronted this fear with such bravery that we all gave a whooping cheer as she finished the final bridge. The experience was fantastic although no monkey and only a few birds appeared to view the crazy humans walking through their canopy.
Our final activity for the day was a night walk through the jungle with Percy. We began by observing the palm trees next to our cabins. It seems tarantulas enjoy making their nests there. Percy pulled one out and placed the fury black insect on Kim's arm. Brave woman! I was having a heart attack. Throughout this hour walk we were shown many spiders, most being very poisonous. At one point we stood in a circle and extinguished our flashlights. For a few minutes we just listened to the incredible sounds of the night jungle. It was a beautiful symphony of rustling leaves and chirping insects. The walk ended with star gazing and discovering the famed Peruvian llama hidden in the dark spaces of the Milky Way.
The night ended with a delicious light buffet dinner and a cake to celebrate Diane's achievement of the day. Congrats to her perseverance!
Jody
To get to Lake Sandoval we first took the motor boat upstream to Tambopata National Reserve. We then walked approximately 2 kilometers to reach a canoe. Percy and Moises (our guides) rowed us out onto the lake to quietly observe the wildlife. We encountered many "stinky" birds, named so due to the fact they have no gizzard and seem to give off a foul smell. Moises indicated they are considered to be fairly prehistoric animals because the babies are born with claws on their wings. These claws help them to climb back up tree trunks to their nests after having jumped out. I understood they loose the claws as adults.
My favorite bird was the snake bird which slides through the water with just its thin neck and head showing. It will suddenly submerge and reappear with only a slight ripple in the surface of the lake. It was a beautiful tranquil morning on the lake. We were a little disappointed to not observe the river otters but it was important to maintain distance from their den due to the fact this is breeding season. The morning ended with a entertaining jungle show. As we approached the dock for enter to the lodge, Moises observed the backside of a fairly large white cayman stuck in the mud. It was perfectly still and there was some discussion as to it being plastic and a "joke" placed on the river bank. Just as we were all convinced it couldn't be real, it pulled its head out of the mud, whipped around, and slid into the water. Nature at its best.
After lunch we tackled the famous canopy walk. This tour requires one to ascend over 100 meters up a tower to get a great look at the forest from above. It seems the tower was designed and constructed (with the help of the locals) by Chicago engineers. From here our guides pointed out the wide variety of trees found in a tropical forest and told us to keep on the lookout for monkeys and birds. We began our cautious walk across 7 swinging bridges at this height. Fortunately the day wasn't windy and the bridges only gently moved under our feet.
As you can imagine, walking across these narrow swinging bridges produced a case of high anxiety for most of us. Diane confronted this fear with such bravery that we all gave a whooping cheer as she finished the final bridge. The experience was fantastic although no monkey and only a few birds appeared to view the crazy humans walking through their canopy.
Our final activity for the day was a night walk through the jungle with Percy. We began by observing the palm trees next to our cabins. It seems tarantulas enjoy making their nests there. Percy pulled one out and placed the fury black insect on Kim's arm. Brave woman! I was having a heart attack. Throughout this hour walk we were shown many spiders, most being very poisonous. At one point we stood in a circle and extinguished our flashlights. For a few minutes we just listened to the incredible sounds of the night jungle. It was a beautiful symphony of rustling leaves and chirping insects. The walk ended with star gazing and discovering the famed Peruvian llama hidden in the dark spaces of the Milky Way.
The night ended with a delicious light buffet dinner and a cake to celebrate Diane's achievement of the day. Congrats to her perseverance!
Jody
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
July 24th Seeing the Ice Maiden
July 24th
AH Sleep....It felt so great to rest in the monastery hotel in Arequipa. I looked out my window and saw the view of the El Misti Volcano. When I started the morning, the breakfast was terrible. Bread that was too thin, butter, and jelly. The fruit was tasteless. Imagine a pineapple that had no juice and no taste. The scrambled eggs they make here are toorunny and without any spice or extra flavoring. There is never any salt or pepper on the table. Lunch was great especially if you have a taste for pigs feet or guinea pig. I was served a huge mounded plate with rice, runny egg veggie goop, a stuffed pepper with beef and cheese, and some raw onions that hid the disgusting pigs feet.. I loved the potato with cheese and the rice and stuffed pepper...but much of it went untouched! Everyone who ate guinea pig loved it!
We went to see lots of churches and into the cloistered convent where we learned a lot about the Dominicans and the way they gained vocations in the 16th-18th century. The second daughter of every family had to go to the convent. She was a novice for 4 years and then became a nun. Her parents had to pay a large sum for her to enter the convent. The nuns had servants who lived with them. They prayed and worked and spent their lives in the convent away from people. The 2nd son became a priest and went to the monastery or seminary. This was only the way for the middle class to keep vocations. But in a way it was not so bad a lifestyle. Back then you had arranged marriages and many women died in childbirth. There was a lot of suffering in married life since the husband could be really cruel.
Then we went to the museum to see the Inca Maiden. It was a wonderful place. We learned about the ritual involved in the sacrifice to the gods and how these children were prepared for their gruesome sacrificial life. The climb up to the top of the volcano was difficult enough, but then they had to drink a narcotic and lay down in the tomb in the fetal position dressed in beautiful clothing and adorned with gold and figures and pottery that they would need in the afterlife. They were then slammed hard on the head with a blow from the high priest. The figure of Juanita, the mummy, was in perfect condition. We could see her mouth opened in a scream of pain. Her eyes were opened and the skin was still on her body. It was kept in a perfect state at 20 degrees. She was found with 4 other children at the top of the mountain. I really was amazed by this mummy.
We can feel the tremors. The tremors actually hit here 30 times per day! The altitude gives me, and many others a headache too!
Maryann
Indiana
AH Sleep....It felt so great to rest in the monastery hotel in Arequipa. I looked out my window and saw the view of the El Misti Volcano. When I started the morning, the breakfast was terrible. Bread that was too thin, butter, and jelly. The fruit was tasteless. Imagine a pineapple that had no juice and no taste. The scrambled eggs they make here are toorunny and without any spice or extra flavoring. There is never any salt or pepper on the table. Lunch was great especially if you have a taste for pigs feet or guinea pig. I was served a huge mounded plate with rice, runny egg veggie goop, a stuffed pepper with beef and cheese, and some raw onions that hid the disgusting pigs feet.. I loved the potato with cheese and the rice and stuffed pepper...but much of it went untouched! Everyone who ate guinea pig loved it!
We went to see lots of churches and into the cloistered convent where we learned a lot about the Dominicans and the way they gained vocations in the 16th-18th century. The second daughter of every family had to go to the convent. She was a novice for 4 years and then became a nun. Her parents had to pay a large sum for her to enter the convent. The nuns had servants who lived with them. They prayed and worked and spent their lives in the convent away from people. The 2nd son became a priest and went to the monastery or seminary. This was only the way for the middle class to keep vocations. But in a way it was not so bad a lifestyle. Back then you had arranged marriages and many women died in childbirth. There was a lot of suffering in married life since the husband could be really cruel.
Then we went to the museum to see the Inca Maiden. It was a wonderful place. We learned about the ritual involved in the sacrifice to the gods and how these children were prepared for their gruesome sacrificial life. The climb up to the top of the volcano was difficult enough, but then they had to drink a narcotic and lay down in the tomb in the fetal position dressed in beautiful clothing and adorned with gold and figures and pottery that they would need in the afterlife. They were then slammed hard on the head with a blow from the high priest. The figure of Juanita, the mummy, was in perfect condition. We could see her mouth opened in a scream of pain. Her eyes were opened and the skin was still on her body. It was kept in a perfect state at 20 degrees. She was found with 4 other children at the top of the mountain. I really was amazed by this mummy.
We can feel the tremors. The tremors actually hit here 30 times per day! The altitude gives me, and many others a headache too!
Maryann
Indiana
Saturday, July 26, 2008
We were up early for another full day. Three of our group members are out of commission with altitude issues. Several others have felt the effects—headache, nausea, difficulty breathing—but recovered. We are hoping a day’s rest will be the cure for these three as well. Coca tea and candies have helped us all.
We were on our bus by 7 a.m. After Miriam fought with the police to let us through a parade-closed street in Puno (she told him we were all American government officials), the first stop was Chucuito at an Incan fertility temple. There are a few walls remaining and an arrangement of many phallic stones. The Spaniards used most of the temples’ stones to build a cathedral nearby. The remnants have been reconfigured to create the site we saw today. Offerings are still left by Andeans today as tribute and prayers for Pachamama, Mother Earth.
At Charcas we caught our boat to the island of Taquile. It was a clear, sunny, crisp day. We switched between the top deck and the cabin for great views across Lake Titicaca (Titikaka in Quechua)—all the way to Bolivia. The lake is crystal clear, covering 8400 square kilometers.
Taquile is a community out of the past. We climbed up, though not easily given the altitud, to the town center whereh we were fortunate to watch a folkloric dance. Yesterday was the beginning San Santiago’s Party. The Andeans who live here speak Quechua and cling to their native dress and subsistence living. The island is terraced. Norma, our very knowledgeable guide, explained that pata-pata is Quechua for terrace. When the Spaniards arrived, they found the Andeans growing primarily potatoes on theses terraces. Although Imilla is the Quechua name for potato, the Spaniards took a variation on pata-pata for this new vegetable—papa, or patata in Spain.
Farming is the main activity in the wet season (potatoes and quinua). Now, in the dry season, everyone is involved in handicrafts. The men knit and the women weave. Many of us bought fine quality knit hats with earflaps, or woven belts and bags. Norma explained that dress indicated a lot. Married men and women wear different hats and bags than children and single adults.
We had a very leisurely 2+ hour trip to Los Uros, the floating islands. We got a chance to rest and nap; no one slept much last night as we adjusted to the altitude.
The floating islands have existed since 1100 A.D. when the Aymara fled to the reeds on Lake Titicaca fearing the Spanish were invading to kill them. We had a demonstration of how the reed roots are cut in blocks, bound together, anchored to the river bed and then layered with reeds to make the islands. There are forty of them. They float thirteen meters above the river bed near the Bay of Puno. The islands survive now on the tourist trade. They compete amongst each other to see which island can attract more tourists. They dressed us in native dress and we danced with them. Then we bought! We are good at that!
We had a quick boat trip back—and cancelled our evening trip to Sillustani. Too dark, too tired. Pizza and bed for us—then a 4:00 a.m. wake up call.
Shauna
Art teacher
Champaign, IL
We were on our bus by 7 a.m. After Miriam fought with the police to let us through a parade-closed street in Puno (she told him we were all American government officials), the first stop was Chucuito at an Incan fertility temple. There are a few walls remaining and an arrangement of many phallic stones. The Spaniards used most of the temples’ stones to build a cathedral nearby. The remnants have been reconfigured to create the site we saw today. Offerings are still left by Andeans today as tribute and prayers for Pachamama, Mother Earth.
At Charcas we caught our boat to the island of Taquile. It was a clear, sunny, crisp day. We switched between the top deck and the cabin for great views across Lake Titicaca (Titikaka in Quechua)—all the way to Bolivia. The lake is crystal clear, covering 8400 square kilometers.
Taquile is a community out of the past. We climbed up, though not easily given the altitud, to the town center whereh we were fortunate to watch a folkloric dance. Yesterday was the beginning San Santiago’s Party. The Andeans who live here speak Quechua and cling to their native dress and subsistence living. The island is terraced. Norma, our very knowledgeable guide, explained that pata-pata is Quechua for terrace. When the Spaniards arrived, they found the Andeans growing primarily potatoes on theses terraces. Although Imilla is the Quechua name for potato, the Spaniards took a variation on pata-pata for this new vegetable—papa, or patata in Spain.
Farming is the main activity in the wet season (potatoes and quinua). Now, in the dry season, everyone is involved in handicrafts. The men knit and the women weave. Many of us bought fine quality knit hats with earflaps, or woven belts and bags. Norma explained that dress indicated a lot. Married men and women wear different hats and bags than children and single adults.
We had a very leisurely 2+ hour trip to Los Uros, the floating islands. We got a chance to rest and nap; no one slept much last night as we adjusted to the altitude.
The floating islands have existed since 1100 A.D. when the Aymara fled to the reeds on Lake Titicaca fearing the Spanish were invading to kill them. We had a demonstration of how the reed roots are cut in blocks, bound together, anchored to the river bed and then layered with reeds to make the islands. There are forty of them. They float thirteen meters above the river bed near the Bay of Puno. The islands survive now on the tourist trade. They compete amongst each other to see which island can attract more tourists. They dressed us in native dress and we danced with them. Then we bought! We are good at that!
We had a quick boat trip back—and cancelled our evening trip to Sillustani. Too dark, too tired. Pizza and bed for us—then a 4:00 a.m. wake up call.
Shauna
Art teacher
Champaign, IL
July 25-Puno
Hello from Eco Inn on the beautiful banks of Lake Titikaka. This morning we got on the road at 5am with an alpaca in my pocket and an Angél in the front of the bus. We got to the airport just in time for an aggitated woman to tell us we were late and that our bags would not be loaded. She told us all of this while she was tagging and checking our bags. We were not late, and as it pretty much always is on this trip, everything turned out ok.
We got to the hotel, drank some coca tea and took a nap. We lost a few soldiers to altitude sickness today. I cannot attest to the severity of the pain, nausea and headache, but anyone else from the trip who felt the effects, please feel free to comment.
The hotel is very nice, with the lake across the street and a steady stream of locals walking along the train tracks. It makes for some lovely pictures, good project interviews and interesting people watching.
After the nap we had a lecture about the more than 2000 types of potatoes cultivated in Puno and all of the types of quinua and kañiwa. They taught us of the healthy benefits to these foods and we are all believers. (Erin, I hope you are ready to hunt down some quinua with me in Canton, Ohio.) After the lecture we met with women from a handicrafts cooperative. Their clothes were so soft and so pretty.
Then we went for dinner and a cultural show on the Ccolla Steamship. A grounded ship. We ate some quinua, had a crazy pisco drink and enjoyed the live Andean music and dancing. Hopefully all of our troops who fell ill will rejoin the ranks tomorrow.
Emily
Canton, Ohio
We got to the hotel, drank some coca tea and took a nap. We lost a few soldiers to altitude sickness today. I cannot attest to the severity of the pain, nausea and headache, but anyone else from the trip who felt the effects, please feel free to comment.
The hotel is very nice, with the lake across the street and a steady stream of locals walking along the train tracks. It makes for some lovely pictures, good project interviews and interesting people watching.
After the nap we had a lecture about the more than 2000 types of potatoes cultivated in Puno and all of the types of quinua and kañiwa. They taught us of the healthy benefits to these foods and we are all believers. (Erin, I hope you are ready to hunt down some quinua with me in Canton, Ohio.) After the lecture we met with women from a handicrafts cooperative. Their clothes were so soft and so pretty.
Then we went for dinner and a cultural show on the Ccolla Steamship. A grounded ship. We ate some quinua, had a crazy pisco drink and enjoyed the live Andean music and dancing. Hopefully all of our troops who fell ill will rejoin the ranks tomorrow.
Emily
Canton, Ohio
July 23--Road to Arequipa
You know it’s never a good thing when one of your group leaders stands up and says: “ I have some good news and some bad news. . . “ Well, midway through our lovely and tasty dinner at The Chelsea restaurant in Trujillo, Jacques stood up and said those very words. The good news was that we would be able to keep on our schedule as planned. The bad news, however, was that Lan Perú, the airline that we are flying on for our domestic flights here in Perú (not by choice, but because it’s a monopoly) had decided to cancel the flight from Trujillo to Lima. Great! So we would have to go by bus to Lima and catch our connecting flight from Lima to Arequipa. Oh—at a little after 3 a.m.!
Each room received a wake up call at about 2:45 and we were on the road at about 3:20 a.m. PersonallyI was lucky and was able to sleep for most of the time, so I wasn’t able to be annoyed by an incessant beeping noice, or observe the steep coastline drop-offs that we were driving along (with no guard rail). Well, we made good time, arrived at the Lima airport with plenty of time before our flight. After checking in, most of us went to morning worship at Starbuck’s.
Nothing was planned for us in Arequipa until later in the afternoon, so we settled into our rooms, some people walked around to explore the city and others rested. In the early evening, we took a bus to la Universidad Católica de Santa María and heard a lecture in a very cold and dark room entitled “The Indigenous Migration in Peru.” The speaker, Dra. Pamela Cabala started out by discussing appropriate and inappropriate terminology when referring to the indigenous peoples of Perú. Curiously, she stated that the word “indígena” is viewed as somewhat derogatory and the terms “native” or “andino” are preferred. The other part of her talk focused on the destinations of Peruvians who migrate both within and outside of Peru. As one would expect, Lima is a hub, as it is the biggest city, with about 1/3 of Peru’s population. Destinations outside of Peru include the United States, Spain and Germany. More women migrate to Germany than men. Most of them find work in the service industry—cleaning, domestic help, cooking, etc.
Following the lecture, we all went to a great restaurant called which I think means Day and Night. I had a Maracuyá (passion fruit) sour which had Pisco in it. Yum! Some people tried alpaca meat , which most people said was too gamey, but they were glad they tried it.
Alisa
Spanish teacher
Shaker Heights High School
Each room received a wake up call at about 2:45 and we were on the road at about 3:20 a.m. PersonallyI was lucky and was able to sleep for most of the time, so I wasn’t able to be annoyed by an incessant beeping noice, or observe the steep coastline drop-offs that we were driving along (with no guard rail). Well, we made good time, arrived at the Lima airport with plenty of time before our flight. After checking in, most of us went to morning worship at Starbuck’s.
Nothing was planned for us in Arequipa until later in the afternoon, so we settled into our rooms, some people walked around to explore the city and others rested. In the early evening, we took a bus to la Universidad Católica de Santa María and heard a lecture in a very cold and dark room entitled “The Indigenous Migration in Peru.” The speaker, Dra. Pamela Cabala started out by discussing appropriate and inappropriate terminology when referring to the indigenous peoples of Perú. Curiously, she stated that the word “indígena” is viewed as somewhat derogatory and the terms “native” or “andino” are preferred. The other part of her talk focused on the destinations of Peruvians who migrate both within and outside of Peru. As one would expect, Lima is a hub, as it is the biggest city, with about 1/3 of Peru’s population. Destinations outside of Peru include the United States, Spain and Germany. More women migrate to Germany than men. Most of them find work in the service industry—cleaning, domestic help, cooking, etc.
Following the lecture, we all went to a great restaurant called which I think means Day and Night. I had a Maracuyá (passion fruit) sour which had Pisco in it. Yum! Some people tried alpaca meat , which most people said was too gamey, but they were glad they tried it.
Alisa
Spanish teacher
Shaker Heights High School
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Trujillo, Peru--22 julio 2008
It was a marathon day in Trujillo with our first stop of the day at a school where we were received with quite a fanfare. The all-boys school enrolls both primary and secondary students, four of whom gave us warm welcome speeches in English. 
After touring the school and experiencing primary school recess (not unlike ours--wrestling moves are alive and well around the world as you can see by the photo), we went to the Rainbow Temple. The temple is part of the extensive Chan Chan city used during the Chimu civilization and is estimated to have been built between 1300-1400 BC. The site of many human and animal sacrifices, the temple is called the ¨Rainbow Temple¨ because of its many reliefs containing rainbows and various animals.
We left Rainbow Temple to visit the Chan Chan Museum and another archaeological site within the 24 square miles of the Chimu civilization´s ruins. We saw but one temple of nine that remain out of an estimated 20 that existed during the Chimu civilization. The site is currently being restored and preserved, and it was interesting to see many people at work resurfacing the remaining adobe walls.
We then went to lunch at the beach at the idiosyncratically named ¨Big Ben Restaurant¨ where we had many Peruvian dishes from which to choose while watching surfers. From there, we went to our third (and final!) site of the day: Huaca de la Luna. This final site was certainly the highlight of the day--archaeologists have discovered full-color reliefs of the god Aiapaec and various animals along with what may be a calendar.
Finally, we were treated to a city tour of Trujillo and enjoyed a dinner at Chelsea restaurant. It was there that Jacques announced good news and bad news: the good news was that we would be able to complete all of the upcoming activities on our itinerary, the bad news was that the next day´s flight from Trujillo to Lima had been canceled and that we would be leaving at 3:30am on a bus to make it to Lima in time to make our connection... to read about that adventure, watch for Alisa´s blog coming soon. (LR)
After touring the school and experiencing primary school recess (not unlike ours--wrestling moves are alive and well around the world as you can see by the photo), we went to the Rainbow Temple. The temple is part of the extensive Chan Chan city used during the Chimu civilization and is estimated to have been built between 1300-1400 BC. The site of many human and animal sacrifices, the temple is called the ¨Rainbow Temple¨ because of its many reliefs containing rainbows and various animals.
We left Rainbow Temple to visit the Chan Chan Museum and another archaeological site within the 24 square miles of the Chimu civilization´s ruins. We saw but one temple of nine that remain out of an estimated 20 that existed during the Chimu civilization. The site is currently being restored and preserved, and it was interesting to see many people at work resurfacing the remaining adobe walls.
We then went to lunch at the beach at the idiosyncratically named ¨Big Ben Restaurant¨ where we had many Peruvian dishes from which to choose while watching surfers. From there, we went to our third (and final!) site of the day: Huaca de la Luna. This final site was certainly the highlight of the day--archaeologists have discovered full-color reliefs of the god Aiapaec and various animals along with what may be a calendar.
Finally, we were treated to a city tour of Trujillo and enjoyed a dinner at Chelsea restaurant. It was there that Jacques announced good news and bad news: the good news was that we would be able to complete all of the upcoming activities on our itinerary, the bad news was that the next day´s flight from Trujillo to Lima had been canceled and that we would be leaving at 3:30am on a bus to make it to Lima in time to make our connection... to read about that adventure, watch for Alisa´s blog coming soon. (LR)
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
July 21 CSI: Lima
Today began like most other days, with a quiet morning walk. As some members of the group ventured down to the beach to enjoy the ocean view......
Kim: Look at that cool shell....I think I`ll go pick it up
Emily: Ummm hold on......I think its a human skull
Kim: Are you sure? .......Yikes it is.....What should we do?
Emily: Probably tell the police
Kim: Do you know how to say "skull" in Spanish?
We wasted no time getting our first (and hopefully last) introduction with the Peruvian police. Luckily one had just driven past and was easy to flag down. By the time we left there were two cars and about ten officers "guarding" the scene.....No one took down our names or information, but we have been watching the news for updates....nothing so far, but let us know if it makes CNN.
After pretening to be junior detectives, we got down to business by hearing a morning lecture at the Universidad Nacional Mayor de San Marcos by archaeologist Jorge Silva. San Marcos is the first EVER university in the Americas (sorry Harvard). It was a very fitting backdrop to recieve an overview lecture on pre-Inca Peruvian history. Dr. Silva is a Fulbright alumnus who studied at the University of Michigan (Go blue!).
In the afternoon, we visited another Fulbirght alumnus, but in a very different setting. We made the trip by taxi to the outskirts of Lima, to visit school Colegio Fe y Alegria 23. The district the school is in is a former shanty town that started being settled about thirty years ago. Since the development of the area is relatively long standing, homes and shops are now made out of permenant materials, but still represent a much lower socioeconomic status than we had been exposed to by staying in Miraflores (a more upper middle class section of Lima). The land is much drier, and backs up to one of the many hill-mountains that surrond the city. While there are public streets, the allys are actually publically built and maintained stairwells as a way to accomodate the landscape. Since there is very little rain, everything is covered in layers of dust. Houses located further up the hills are less likely to have basic services.
Christine F., a teacher just finishing up a Fulbright teacher exchange, served as our tour guide for the school. Christine served as an excellent cultural interpreter given she is now from "both worlds." She was also a great resource for getting more information on the teacher exchange program, which some members of our group are interested in pursuing. While the school has almost no resources, they have created a haven for students to enter. Students work hard and are proud of what they are able to achieve. We got to watch a class of students practicing for the folkloric festival, which is one the of biggest events for the school and community. Each class creates a performance and the best class wins a prize. The prize is normally a day trip to a country club type place.
After visiting the school we boarded a plane and safely landed in Trujillo. More adventures to come!
Kim
Boston
History
Kim: Look at that cool shell....I think I`ll go pick it up
Emily: Ummm hold on......I think its a human skull
Kim: Are you sure? .......Yikes it is.....What should we do?
Emily: Probably tell the police
Kim: Do you know how to say "skull" in Spanish?
We wasted no time getting our first (and hopefully last) introduction with the Peruvian police. Luckily one had just driven past and was easy to flag down. By the time we left there were two cars and about ten officers "guarding" the scene.....No one took down our names or information, but we have been watching the news for updates....nothing so far, but let us know if it makes CNN.
After pretening to be junior detectives, we got down to business by hearing a morning lecture at the Universidad Nacional Mayor de San Marcos by archaeologist Jorge Silva. San Marcos is the first EVER university in the Americas (sorry Harvard). It was a very fitting backdrop to recieve an overview lecture on pre-Inca Peruvian history. Dr. Silva is a Fulbright alumnus who studied at the University of Michigan (Go blue!).
In the afternoon, we visited another Fulbirght alumnus, but in a very different setting. We made the trip by taxi to the outskirts of Lima, to visit school Colegio Fe y Alegria 23. The district the school is in is a former shanty town that started being settled about thirty years ago. Since the development of the area is relatively long standing, homes and shops are now made out of permenant materials, but still represent a much lower socioeconomic status than we had been exposed to by staying in Miraflores (a more upper middle class section of Lima). The land is much drier, and backs up to one of the many hill-mountains that surrond the city. While there are public streets, the allys are actually publically built and maintained stairwells as a way to accomodate the landscape. Since there is very little rain, everything is covered in layers of dust. Houses located further up the hills are less likely to have basic services.
Christine F., a teacher just finishing up a Fulbright teacher exchange, served as our tour guide for the school. Christine served as an excellent cultural interpreter given she is now from "both worlds." She was also a great resource for getting more information on the teacher exchange program, which some members of our group are interested in pursuing. While the school has almost no resources, they have created a haven for students to enter. Students work hard and are proud of what they are able to achieve. We got to watch a class of students practicing for the folkloric festival, which is one the of biggest events for the school and community. Each class creates a performance and the best class wins a prize. The prize is normally a day trip to a country club type place.
After visiting the school we boarded a plane and safely landed in Trujillo. More adventures to come!
Kim
Boston
History
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Lima Peru July 20, 2008
July 20th
What a misty morning in the enchanted land of Peru! As I walked the streets this morning on my way to morning mass, the street cleaners were out in full force. Dressed in red and yellow uniforms, the men scoured the sidewalks pushing the scraps of paper and old cigarette butts off the curb with their odd shaped brooms. This was followed by a wash and scrubbing as the street sweepers followed up and sucked up the remaining scrapes. Mexico should take a lesson from the Peruvians and organize a band of men to do this task in their large cities. Jorge should suggest this to someone of importance! We boarded the bus with a whole group of people from the Fulbright Commission in Peru. Henry Harman Guerra and his wife joined us along with Marcela´s mother. The other ladies and their families were so helpful and considerate as we traveled to Pacha Camac Archaeological site. There we were told by our guide several times that the Lima people were the first to settle this area from 0-600 AD. Then came the WARI here in 600-900 while in the highlands it was the Moche that lived during this same period. The Ischma lived at Pacha Camac from 900-1470 and finally came the Inca in 1470-1533.
Pacha (Earth) Camac (Creator) means Creator of the Earth.
It was the Inca that Pizarro met when he bravely walked into the immense city covered in red painted or achote adobe. By the time we all climbed to the top of the Temple to the Sun, we could see the brilliant view that Pizarro saw as he landed on the coast. It was only a short walk from the sea to the city and the Inca could definitely see him coming! As I looked out at that foggy sea on this winter Sunday south of the Equator, I tried to visualize the scene. A few hundred bearded conquistadors dressed in silver colored armor marching in a straight line towards the hilltop fortress, while thousands of Inca looked on. What did they think? Why did they surrender so easily and accept what Pizarro said and did without a fight? What would have happened if the Inca had decided to attack? It was in 1533 that this happened and the Spaniards simply walked bravely up the main road to the temple. Then they took the idol of Pachacamac (who has two faces one for the past and one for the present), broke it in half, and replaced it with a wooden cross.
In the Lima period there were finger prints on the adobe and it was built using the bookshelf construction. We learned that this was a great way to prevent collapse during an earthquake. In the Ischma period they built the adobe using molds, so there are no finger prints.
Next we went down to see the MAMACUNA. These were reconstructed homes for the women who would be sacrificed, become concubines of the Inca, or become the teachers of future women in the temple. The woman had to be virgins and if a man entered the area he would be killed. So you could say anyway you look at it these woman were screwed!
We drove through the poorer areas of Lima and saw the shanty construction of the squatters. Then we went to eat at a fabulous place with a horse show and dance. The Peruvian Pace horses pranced around the green while we were served delicious yucca appetizers and pisco (a kind of drink that tastes a lot like a whiskey sour). Some in the group, including me, got up the courage to ride these beautiful horses. We ate causa, potatoes and filling made in layers. Then we had lomosaltado, potatoes and beef with tomatoes. Then we learned that in Peru there are 1200 different types of potato dishes.
Carole gave us a list of the highlights of the trip so far. She is funny, everyday she remarks, "Well this might just be one of the highlights.."
1. The chicken ceremony with candles at San Juan de Chamula.
2. Any bench she can find along the way to sit on.
3. Xochilico boat ride, actually all boat rides, train rides, and bus rides.
4. The catacombs in Peru at the Franciscan Monastery.
5. Jorge laughing with Maryann or anyone.
6. Prancing Horses.
7. Dancing Kids.
8. Quinceinero in San Cristobal Cathedral.
9. Shopping through the bus window.
10. Coca light!
We ended the day doing our own thing. Carole, Diane and I went to Santo Domingo to see the relics of Saint Rose of Lima and Saint Martin de Porres by taxi. Then Nelson, our driver, took us to shop at the Inka Market while he waited for us in the car. Everyday is another adventure! Above is the group at the luncheon on the grass, and Carole holding flat Stanley in front of the dancers. The last picture is of the house of the Women at Pachacamac.
What a misty morning in the enchanted land of Peru! As I walked the streets this morning on my way to morning mass, the street cleaners were out in full force. Dressed in red and yellow uniforms, the men scoured the sidewalks pushing the scraps of paper and old cigarette butts off the curb with their odd shaped brooms. This was followed by a wash and scrubbing as the street sweepers followed up and sucked up the remaining scrapes. Mexico should take a lesson from the Peruvians and organize a band of men to do this task in their large cities. Jorge should suggest this to someone of importance! We boarded the bus with a whole group of people from the Fulbright Commission in Peru. Henry Harman Guerra and his wife joined us along with Marcela´s mother. The other ladies and their families were so helpful and considerate as we traveled to Pacha Camac Archaeological site. There we were told by our guide several times that the Lima people were the first to settle this area from 0-600 AD. Then came the WARI here in 600-900 while in the highlands it was the Moche that lived during this same period. The Ischma lived at Pacha Camac from 900-1470 and finally came the Inca in 1470-1533.
Pacha (Earth) Camac (Creator) means Creator of the Earth.
It was the Inca that Pizarro met when he bravely walked into the immense city covered in red painted or achote adobe. By the time we all climbed to the top of the Temple to the Sun, we could see the brilliant view that Pizarro saw as he landed on the coast. It was only a short walk from the sea to the city and the Inca could definitely see him coming! As I looked out at that foggy sea on this winter Sunday south of the Equator, I tried to visualize the scene. A few hundred bearded conquistadors dressed in silver colored armor marching in a straight line towards the hilltop fortress, while thousands of Inca looked on. What did they think? Why did they surrender so easily and accept what Pizarro said and did without a fight? What would have happened if the Inca had decided to attack? It was in 1533 that this happened and the Spaniards simply walked bravely up the main road to the temple. Then they took the idol of Pachacamac (who has two faces one for the past and one for the present), broke it in half, and replaced it with a wooden cross.
In the Lima period there were finger prints on the adobe and it was built using the bookshelf construction. We learned that this was a great way to prevent collapse during an earthquake. In the Ischma period they built the adobe using molds, so there are no finger prints.
Next we went down to see the MAMACUNA. These were reconstructed homes for the women who would be sacrificed, become concubines of the Inca, or become the teachers of future women in the temple. The woman had to be virgins and if a man entered the area he would be killed. So you could say anyway you look at it these woman were screwed!
We drove through the poorer areas of Lima and saw the shanty construction of the squatters. Then we went to eat at a fabulous place with a horse show and dance. The Peruvian Pace horses pranced around the green while we were served delicious yucca appetizers and pisco (a kind of drink that tastes a lot like a whiskey sour). Some in the group, including me, got up the courage to ride these beautiful horses. We ate causa, potatoes and filling made in layers. Then we had lomosaltado, potatoes and beef with tomatoes. Then we learned that in Peru there are 1200 different types of potato dishes.
Carole gave us a list of the highlights of the trip so far. She is funny, everyday she remarks, "Well this might just be one of the highlights.."
1. The chicken ceremony with candles at San Juan de Chamula.
2. Any bench she can find along the way to sit on.
3. Xochilico boat ride, actually all boat rides, train rides, and bus rides.
4. The catacombs in Peru at the Franciscan Monastery.
5. Jorge laughing with Maryann or anyone.
6. Prancing Horses.
7. Dancing Kids.
8. Quinceinero in San Cristobal Cathedral.
9. Shopping through the bus window.
10. Coca light!
We ended the day doing our own thing. Carole, Diane and I went to Santo Domingo to see the relics of Saint Rose of Lima and Saint Martin de Porres by taxi. Then Nelson, our driver, took us to shop at the Inka Market while he waited for us in the car. Everyday is another adventure! Above is the group at the luncheon on the grass, and Carole holding flat Stanley in front of the dancers. The last picture is of the house of the Women at Pachacamac.
Maryann
Crown Point
Saturday, July 19, 2008
July 18, Mexico city/Lima, Peru
This entry will be short because all we did before leaving Mexico City was the last minute shopping, but also it will be bittersweet. Sweet, because we are all looking forward to exploring our next destination- Peru; but also bitter, because we had to say good-bye to two people who became quite close to us during our two weeks here in Mexico. First, to Benito, our bus driver, who provided us with snacks and water, and demonstrated his amazing driving skills maneuvering a rather large bus in very narrow, and often very busy intersections. We also said farewell to Jorge who was our guide, advisor, entertainer, and a wonderful friend to all of us. We put together a memory box, which we hope reminds him of us; and from our part we will not forget Jorge´s patience, expertise, and great sense of humor, which he never lost dealing with our charming, but sometimes challenging group.
We boarded our plane to Lima at 5:30 P.M. and arrived at 11:15 P.M. We are ready for our second part of the trip. It will be very interesting to compare these two countries, especially because for many of us it will be the first time visiting Peru.
Galina, Wooster School, Danbury, CT
We boarded our plane to Lima at 5:30 P.M. and arrived at 11:15 P.M. We are ready for our second part of the trip. It will be very interesting to compare these two countries, especially because for many of us it will be the first time visiting Peru.
Galina, Wooster School, Danbury, CT
Lima Peru July 19, 2008
After getting to bed after 2AM, it was difficult for most to be bright-eyed and bushy-tailed by 8 for breakfast. At 9 we met for our first order of business in Peru. The executive director of the Peruvian Fulbright Commission, Mr.Henry A. Harmon Guerra, spoke first, introducing the participants to Peru´s culture, successes and current problems. His introduction included some interesting facts: Peru is the size of France; 50% of Peruvians earn less than $5 a day; most children attend school for approximately 8 years; Alan Garcia has been elected for a second term, the first being 30 years ago. Peru's fiscal growth is rapidly rising; and some of their main resources are silver, gold and copper.
Next, the sixteen teachers were asked to go around the room and one by one explain their individual projects. Karen Spaulding, the guest speaker, made helpful suggest
ions about where information could be located for individual projects. Karen, an ethnic historian and Fulbright scholar, spoke about Managing Empire; knots vs. paper in 16th century Peru. The knots were a method of recording data, although no one is certain the exact meaning.When the participants entered the restaurant chosen for lunch, El Senorio de Sulco, an example of the knots was prominently displayed on one wall. Lunch was amazing beginning with a drink called Pisco sour, followed by a purple fruit drink (chicha morada), a salad buffet, hot food buffet and the largest assortment of desserts seen. Everything was excellent!
After lunch, a tourist bus with a guide took the group for a 3 hour tour of Lima. Sights that were seen included the art museum, political buildings with beautifully carved balconies, olive gardens, an archaeological site called Pucllana (site of the female mummy found in recent years and featured in National Geographic) and at last St. Francis Cathedral and the catacombs. After the tour ended, teachers were free to explore on their own.
Everyone talked about Jorge and how he was missed by all.
Carole W. Madison, Indiana
Friday, July 18, 2008
Thursday, July 17, 2008, Mexico City
Today was our big museum day. First the National Museum of History, then the National Museum of Anthropology. Both are beautifully designed and displayed. The history museum required a climb up to the top of Chapultepec (grasshopper hill) where we enjoyed great views of Mexico City. The turret of the castle, residence of viceroys from Spain, was built over the site of a prehispanic ceremonial center. Later a military academy was built next to it. Six cadets became martyr-heroes by resisting the symbolic storming of the academy by Americans during the Mexican-American War (1847), after which the battle for Mexican land was lost.
Our guide, Linda, was great as we lunged through 500 years of history, Spanish conquest to Revolution, in two hours, convincing us that Mexican history is complex to say the least. Unfortunately, no one was allowed by guards to take notes, labels were in Spanish only and the shop had no catalogue of the collections.
We then hiked down the hill and through Chapultepec Park (like Central Park in NYC, but twice as large) to the famous National Museum of Anthropology, had a "quick" lunch, then faced 5000 objects on the first floor, and ethnographic displays on the upper floor. We had English audioguides to hear about major objects in the museum. By 4PM we suffered TSO (Total Sensory Overload). I take away that a codices is a type of early book, accordian folded, made of deer skin coated with white lime, painted in natural dyes with writing to be read right side to left, zigzag. They record lineage or history accounts. They are beautiful. Also, comparing a Maya Chacmool (rain god) image of the early Maya period to a later Aztec image it is clear that the aesthetic movement was from simplicity to super elaborate decoration with clothing and jewelry.
Then it rained as we left. We ended our last full day in Mexico with a splendid dinner at Hacienda de los Morales, with government officials for education, culture and Fulbright. They are encouraging many further teacher exchanges and welcome all interested in coming to learn about Mexico, train teachers, or teach here, and etc.
Carol, Virginia
Our guide, Linda, was great as we lunged through 500 years of history, Spanish conquest to Revolution, in two hours, convincing us that Mexican history is complex to say the least. Unfortunately, no one was allowed by guards to take notes, labels were in Spanish only and the shop had no catalogue of the collections.
We then hiked down the hill and through Chapultepec Park (like Central Park in NYC, but twice as large) to the famous National Museum of Anthropology, had a "quick" lunch, then faced 5000 objects on the first floor, and ethnographic displays on the upper floor. We had English audioguides to hear about major objects in the museum. By 4PM we suffered TSO (Total Sensory Overload). I take away that a codices is a type of early book, accordian folded, made of deer skin coated with white lime, painted in natural dyes with writing to be read right side to left, zigzag. They record lineage or history accounts. They are beautiful. Also, comparing a Maya Chacmool (rain god) image of the early Maya period to a later Aztec image it is clear that the aesthetic movement was from simplicity to super elaborate decoration with clothing and jewelry.
Then it rained as we left. We ended our last full day in Mexico with a splendid dinner at Hacienda de los Morales, with government officials for education, culture and Fulbright. They are encouraging many further teacher exchanges and welcome all interested in coming to learn about Mexico, train teachers, or teach here, and etc.
Carol, Virginia
Thursday, July 17, 2008
wed. July 16th Teotihuacan
Wow! This day turned out to be physically demanding, yet incredibly interesting. We started our day at the holy site of the Basilica of Guadalupe. Every year on December 12th, which is the anniversary of the apparitions, this site is visited by about two million faithful. They bring their special prayers of intention to be heard. Whether one believes in the apparitions seen in 1531 or not, the Virgin of Guadalupe is truly a miracle. She has become the bridge that unites all of Mexico, no matter what one´s ethnic background happens to be. She is seen as a mother protector and has truly become the one symbol of Mexican national identity. She is truly revered by all.
From there we journey to the Teotihuacan pyramids. Amazing! Before even leaving the parking lot, we were entertained by the Voladores de Papantia. In their colorful costumes, these ¨flying men¨ climbed a huge pole, tied a rope around one ankle and then flew upside down around the pole. We loved it! Now on to the pyramids. This area was the cradle of the Toltec civilization. When the Aztecs arrived here, they were so impressed with the size of the buildings that had been left behind, they believed it was a city of the gods.
The site was divided into the administrative part of the old city and the religious section. The religious sections contained the Pyra
mid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon. They were quite impressive. Many adventurers in our group climbed both. That a stairmaster of another kind. This site is important culturally because it was linked with all regions of MesoAmerica. There is evidence of trade that took place from all regions. At its peak, it was home to about 125,000 people and extensive agriculture took place here.
As if these adventures weren´t enough for one day, next we headed to quite an interesting lunch. We ate in a cave. Yes, that´s right - a huge cave! It was cool and apparently bat-free. However, some of our food tastings were even more unusual than our location. If you think quesadillas with corn fungus is over the top, how about ant larvae and fried worms????? That´s correct. We adventurous fulbrighters wanted to get the most out of our cultural experience, so we ate them. Anything for learning! Yum! Yum!
Wait! The day isn´t over yet. The building was a gorgeous art deco and the stage screen was an exquisite mosaic of magnificient colors. The music, dance and vibrant costumes were fantastic. The hours simply flew by. Now, we all want one of those beauftiful full skirts to flip, twist, and spin around in. Doesn´t that sound like fun?
Benito, our faithful and expert bus driver gathered us all up and deposited us back safely to our lovely hotel. What a jampacked superb day in Mexico this was!
Diane, St. Edwards-Epiphany School, Richmond, Virginia
From there we journey to the Teotihuacan pyramids. Amazing! Before even leaving the parking lot, we were entertained by the Voladores de Papantia. In their colorful costumes, these ¨flying men¨ climbed a huge pole, tied a rope around one ankle and then flew upside down around the pole. We loved it! Now on to the pyramids. This area was the cradle of the Toltec civilization. When the Aztecs arrived here, they were so impressed with the size of the buildings that had been left behind, they believed it was a city of the gods.
The site was divided into the administrative part of the old city and the religious section. The religious sections contained the Pyra
mid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon. They were quite impressive. Many adventurers in our group climbed both. That a stairmaster of another kind. This site is important culturally because it was linked with all regions of MesoAmerica. There is evidence of trade that took place from all regions. At its peak, it was home to about 125,000 people and extensive agriculture took place here.As if these adventures weren´t enough for one day, next we headed to quite an interesting lunch. We ate in a cave. Yes, that´s right - a huge cave! It was cool and apparently bat-free. However, some of our food tastings were even more unusual than our location. If you think quesadillas with corn fungus is over the top, how about ant larvae and fried worms????? That´s correct. We adventurous fulbrighters wanted to get the most out of our cultural experience, so we ate them. Anything for learning! Yum! Yum!
Wait! The day isn´t over yet. The building was a gorgeous art deco and the stage screen was an exquisite mosaic of magnificient colors. The music, dance and vibrant costumes were fantastic. The hours simply flew by. Now, we all want one of those beauftiful full skirts to flip, twist, and spin around in. Doesn´t that sound like fun?
Benito, our faithful and expert bus driver gathered us all up and deposited us back safely to our lovely hotel. What a jampacked superb day in Mexico this was!
Diane, St. Edwards-Epiphany School, Richmond, Virginia
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
July 15 Xochimilco, Coyoacán, Centro Histórico
Amid the bustling and cosmopolitan energy of Mexico City, lay pockets of tranquility. Today, very calming and refreshingly cool, began with a mellow cruise through Xochim
ilco’s causeways. The trajineras are colorful wooden boats enjoyed by tourists and locals for picnics, family gatherings and romantic excursions. We were approached by smaller boats carrying vendors hawking drinks, food and trinkets, and even one boat featuring marimba performers who entertained us for 25 pesos per song. Occasionally we also saw everyday residents of the “floating gardens,” boating to work and engaging in daily life. Our olfactory senses were alerted to one industrious peasant navigating his manure filled boat alongside us.
ilco’s causeways. The trajineras are colorful wooden boats enjoyed by tourists and locals for picnics, family gatherings and romantic excursions. We were approached by smaller boats carrying vendors hawking drinks, food and trinkets, and even one boat featuring marimba performers who entertained us for 25 pesos per song. Occasionally we also saw everyday residents of the “floating gardens,” boating to work and engaging in daily life. Our olfactory senses were alerted to one industrious peasant navigating his manure filled boat alongside us. The calmness of our exploration continued as we then strolled through Frida Kahlo’s “Casa Azul” (Blue House) in Coyoacán. The gardens were peaceful and her artwork and collections inspiring, exemplifying Frida’s passion. It is no wonder she and husband Diego Rivera had such an important influence on contemporary art in Mexico and abroad. We also examined the Rivera murals at the National Palace, vast and vivid illustrations of his intriguing perspective of Mexico’s history.
As we perused the “zócalo,” the central plaza, we were struck by the juxtaposition of historical treasures such as the semi excavated remains of Templo Mayor layered against modern buildings, shops and restaurants heavily populated by well fashioned people. Mexico is unquestionably a land of contrasts and complexity. Our leisurely lunch at Casa de las sirenas extended from 3-5:30 pm and included some of the most luscious food we’ve experienced so far: escamoles (ant eggs), ensalada de nopales (cactus), huitlacoche (corn fungus), flor de calabaza (crepes with zucchini flower), sopa de cilantro, drinks focusing on mango and tamarindo, and the cherished la bomba-a celebration of chocolate to satiate our profound chocolate cravings (for those lucky enough to get it.)
Our decadent lunch was followed by a walk through Centro Histórico with brief stops to check out a dulceria, the famed La casa de los azulejos (House of Tile), an overwhelming bookstore (we are teachers and love books afterall!), and a peek at the Palacio de Belles Artes. Feeling the exhaustion of a day well spent and as if our heads may burst with so much to absorb, many of us were happy to finally land at the hotel after 7 pm. The brave ventured out to further explore Garibaldi Square home to a multitude of fancifully dressed mariachi bands, free flowing tequila and spontaneous dancing under the watchful eye of Jorge, our bold and witty guide. Blogger: Amber 8th grade teacher, Plainfield, IL
July 14th, Tuxtla Gutierrez
Today we all awoke well rested....the Crowne Plaza had a ¨pillow¨ menu---initially I thought it was a bad translation for ¨room service¨, only to find out it really was a pillow menu---five different types of pillows available for our comfort. Given all of our adventures, it was a well earned pampering. We left in the morning to catch our flight to Mexico City and experienced our first Mexico taxi ride----very tame compared to China and Ghana. The drivers obey most traffic laws and only go 5-10 miles over the speed limit. One cab had a very interesting conversation with their cab driver. He had previously lived in the Southern United States for a couple years. He crossed the border illegally, purchased a fake green card, and worked as a landscaper. Through a series of misadventures, he was eventually deported back to Mexico. He has since tried to cross back on a couple of occasions, but has been turned back at the border. He is currently saving up the $2,500 fee for a ¨coyote¨ help him make the dangerous journey in October. He wants to return to the US for better opportunities and because his 6 year old soon is there. These types of conversations are especially powerful for us to hear and partake in because they give human faces and realities to the heated debate over Mexico-US immigration.
We arrived in Mexico City to see----*surprise*---our bus driver had traveled the whole night to be able to pick us up at the airport. It was over a 12 hour drive! Three cheers for Benito!
For the evening, we walked to the Comexus (Fulbright in Mexico) office to hear a lecture on the development of the Mexican identity. The professor was a former Mexican Fulbright to New York and addressed the topic from a philosophy disicpline. While most of us left the lecture with more questions than answers, we were reminded the of complications developing a national identity in a post-colonial country and an increasing global world. The answer to ¨What is Mexico?¨ is more complex than a few weeks stay......
Kim, Boston, HS History
We arrived in Mexico City to see----*surprise*---our bus driver had traveled the whole night to be able to pick us up at the airport. It was over a 12 hour drive! Three cheers for Benito!
For the evening, we walked to the Comexus (Fulbright in Mexico) office to hear a lecture on the development of the Mexican identity. The professor was a former Mexican Fulbright to New York and addressed the topic from a philosophy disicpline. While most of us left the lecture with more questions than answers, we were reminded the of complications developing a national identity in a post-colonial country and an increasing global world. The answer to ¨What is Mexico?¨ is more complex than a few weeks stay......
Kim, Boston, HS History
Monday, July 14, 2008
July 13th--Sumidero Canyon and Tuxtla-Gutierrez
The beginning of our 3rd week. . . .
Our last morning in San Cristobal. Checking e-mail at 7 -– a daily activity for most of us. We have to get to a computer when we can. At 7, Galina and I were the only ones. We had a morning walk up the many, many stairs to the Iglesias de San Cristobal- where morning mass was in progress. At 7:30 we heard bells from all across the city, along with roosters crowing and the ever- present dog population barking good morning. It was a beautiful beginning to the day and a beautiful view of the city, the surrounds, and the mountains.
The courtyard garden of our hotel was hard to leave. After 4 days, it had become a comfortable meeting place before a morning walk or to end the day and share our adventures and finds. We all accomplished the difficult task of organizing our luggage and taking just 1 carry-on for the next two days. All the rest of our luggage goes with Benito on the bus while we go to Tuxtla, Gutierrez and then fly to Mexico, City.
It was yet another perfect Fulbri ght day. Perfect weather for our drive to Chiapa de Corzo and an hour-long 37 kilom
eter boat ride to the Eco Park in Sumidero Canyon on the Grijalva River, the largest waterway in Mexico. At its deepest point is one kilometer from the top of the canyon to the bottom of the river. Waterfalls, egrets, terrific rock formations and 2 kilometers of a floating garbage dump for plastic bottles. These bottles have been a topic of conversation the past 2 weeks. They are everywhere. There doesn’t seem to be the infrastructure here to get rid of them. The Grijalva traps all the bottles that are washed further north into the river when it rains—and there have been big rains. So, there’s a big mess for those two kilometers.We detoured the park biologist’s introduction to the park by asking so many questions about the river not being cleaned up. He explained that the park has a mission to educate students about their Chiapanecan heritage identity through environmental education. Their job as they see it is to teach children not to litter as opposed to teaching them to clean things up. In Jorge’s words “cierra el piano y no toques ese vals.” Close the piano and don’t play that waltz again. In other words, let's shut the door on that topic.
The park has been open for 5 years. The land was farm land but 20,000 trees/plants were put in to create a beautiful setting for swimming, kayaking, rapelling and zip lining through the forest—the real draws for tourists.
After our animated discussion with the park biologist, 15 of us flew down the mountain on the zip line. It was exhilarating (and certainly not what we had expected of our Mexico Fulbright experience when we applied.) It was great fun. With perfect Fulbright timing, we arrived at the restaurant just as our buffet lunch was being laid out. The rain started as we began eating and was over by our coffee and dessert. Just in time for kayaking and sitting by the pool. Our afternoon discussion poolside was the beginning of a really reflective group discussion of what we have each been struck by the most in the past 2 weeks here in Mexico. We are a well balanced group –of age, teaching experience, location, grade levels and curriculum areas. We are really missing only a science/math person. I am hopeful this will be only the first of many such group give and takes about our projects, insights and perceptions.
We ended the day with a swim at the hotel in Tuxtla-Gutierrez and then 2 dinner options. An easy but festive group dinner at the restaurant or a more labor intensive trip to the supermarket and a picnic by the pool. Tomorrow we are off to Mexico City!
Each day so far has been a new best day for me. All interesting, all different. Each Fulbright day is, in its own way, perfect.
Shauna
Illinois
July 11th-San Juan Chamula and Zinacantan
Friday July 11, 2008
I will preface this entire blog entry with an apology for all errors or misconceptions. I am overwhelmed with fascinating information that I have not been able to fully digest, but I’ll give a go at writing something coherent for our blog.
The day was dedicated to visiting San Juan Chamula and Zinacantan, indigenous villages on the outskirts of San Cristobal. Janet Schwartz was our guide for the day. We first arrived in San Juan Chamula and were warned against taking
photographs. This town is a religious center for the Chamula Mayan Indians and they tightly control photographing of their religious practices. The town is constructed around a center market that was filled with fruits, vegetables, meat, local textiles, tourist goods, and a fair amount of Chinese imported trinkets. It was bustling with locals and tourists. We entered the church and were able to witness the fascinating combination of traditional Mayan rituals combined with Catholicism. Yes, there were many candles, prayers, drinking of coke, and neck ringing of a chicken. Janet previously explained the practice of being in charge of a patron saint (cargo) and the incredible cost associated with the task…over $10,000 US dollars. It is fascinating to see the interplay of the US economy and how it has helped to develop these communities. Young men illegally enter the US to work and through their hard labor they are able to provide financial support to their families. It was often seen in the construction of nice homes in San Juan Chamula. One very pretty blue home displayed Doric columns and imitation siding made out of cement.
Zinacantan is quite different from San Juan Chamula. This town is further up the mo
untain and is blessed with fertile soil that supports a local flower industry. Greenhouses dotted the landscape as we entered town. I understand this community tends to stick together and few have ventured to the US. Between flower growing and beautiful textile work the local indigenous population has stayed very connected to this community. We were taken for a tour of the church by a lovely young woman named Patrona. She wore the typical dress that Chip had so carefully explained during his lecture yesterday. We were also invited to her home to sample posh (alcohol-spiked fruit drink), coffee brewed with panela (raw sugar), and tortillas. We had the opportunity to closely watch Patrona’s mother make and grill the tortillas over a fire. Fresh tortillas are delicious, far superior to the store-bought kind I get at home. The 
best photo op for the day came with Kim and Jorge being dressed as traditional Mayan bride and groom. To complete the picture Jacque and Amber served as the “godparents.” I believe Kim and Jorge would be pleased to receive any wedding gifts you would like to send.
I finished off this great day by attending a jazz concert at a beautiful theatre near our hotel. The Fred Martin Quartet from California played and the house was packed. We shared a bottle of wine, rocked to the music and enjoyed a few hours of our American cultural heritage. Good night from San Cristobal de las Casas.
I will preface this entire blog entry with an apology for all errors or misconceptions. I am overwhelmed with fascinating information that I have not been able to fully digest, but I’ll give a go at writing something coherent for our blog.
The day was dedicated to visiting San Juan Chamula and Zinacantan, indigenous villages on the outskirts of San Cristobal. Janet Schwartz was our guide for the day. We first arrived in San Juan Chamula and were warned against taking
photographs. This town is a religious center for the Chamula Mayan Indians and they tightly control photographing of their religious practices. The town is constructed around a center market that was filled with fruits, vegetables, meat, local textiles, tourist goods, and a fair amount of Chinese imported trinkets. It was bustling with locals and tourists. We entered the church and were able to witness the fascinating combination of traditional Mayan rituals combined with Catholicism. Yes, there were many candles, prayers, drinking of coke, and neck ringing of a chicken. Janet previously explained the practice of being in charge of a patron saint (cargo) and the incredible cost associated with the task…over $10,000 US dollars. It is fascinating to see the interplay of the US economy and how it has helped to develop these communities. Young men illegally enter the US to work and through their hard labor they are able to provide financial support to their families. It was often seen in the construction of nice homes in San Juan Chamula. One very pretty blue home displayed Doric columns and imitation siding made out of cement.Zinacantan is quite different from San Juan Chamula. This town is further up the mo
untain and is blessed with fertile soil that supports a local flower industry. Greenhouses dotted the landscape as we entered town. I understand this community tends to stick together and few have ventured to the US. Between flower growing and beautiful textile work the local indigenous population has stayed very connected to this community. We were taken for a tour of the church by a lovely young woman named Patrona. She wore the typical dress that Chip had so carefully explained during his lecture yesterday. We were also invited to her home to sample posh (alcohol-spiked fruit drink), coffee brewed with panela (raw sugar), and tortillas. We had the opportunity to closely watch Patrona’s mother make and grill the tortillas over a fire. Fresh tortillas are delicious, far superior to the store-bought kind I get at home. The 
best photo op for the day came with Kim and Jorge being dressed as traditional Mayan bride and groom. To complete the picture Jacque and Amber served as the “godparents.” I believe Kim and Jorge would be pleased to receive any wedding gifts you would like to send.I finished off this great day by attending a jazz concert at a beautiful theatre near our hotel. The Fred Martin Quartet from California played and the house was packed. We shared a bottle of wine, rocked to the music and enjoyed a few hours of our American cultural heritage. Good night from San Cristobal de las Casas.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
July 12, A Day Off in San Cristobal de las Casas
It was a day off. The schedule stated it and Jacques confirmed it; so why were so many of us up at 7 A.M. and working out a schedule? Today we would be going in different directions today. Today, there would be few common experiences, but I suppose even common experiences are rarely so.
The early morning found a few of us on the top of the hill that housed the Church of Guadalupe. The site provided a wonderful view of the city. The galvanized roofs reflected the rising sun. The blues, pinks, reds and other bright colors that show off the houses were vivid. Also apparent from this view is that San Cristobal is surrounded by hills. What a sight!
Later that day when we shared our experiences at La Revolucion (a local bar) and found that others had interesting adventures as well. Carol B. visited the Jade Museum and found it to be an art historian's dream; the chronology of jade was displayed with replicas. The original jades are spread out in museums worldwide.
And just think, this was our day off! Vamos a Tuxtla-Gutierrez! What´s up Brooklyn?Antoinette, Brooklyn.
The early morning found a few of us on the top of the hill that housed the Church of Guadalupe. The site provided a wonderful view of the city. The galvanized roofs reflected the rising sun. The blues, pinks, reds and other bright colors that show off the houses were vivid. Also apparent from this view is that San Cristobal is surrounded by hills. What a sight!
After breakfast, Alisa, Shauna and I decided to visit the pottery village, Amatenango and the weaving village Aguatenango. On the car ride there we would find out that the road to Aguatenango was flooded and would not be possible today. As we entered Amatenango we began to worry that we had taken this trip only to see wares for tourists on display. The taxi driver suggested that we might be able to walk into the town and see some potters at work. We needed no further prompting. It took only a few steps to realize that we were the only foreigners in the village. Containing our glee was almost impossible. We walked along semi- paved roads in the company of sleeping dogs, nods from the men who sat at the town square, smiles from the women walking with their wares. It was not too long before we came across a woman potter. Once told that we wanted to observe a potter at work, she invited us into her yard. Without hesitation, she began to show us the process she uses to create her pottery. We could barely keep ourselves from jumping up and down. Really.
Carolina, our new friend, not only showed us her skills, but introduced us to her six children and husband. She allowed us to practice, and was kind enough not to laugh at our pathetic attempts. Most interesting was her kiln which was not an oven but an open fire! Although Carolina allowed us to take pictures, she told us many villagers did not like their pictures taken, a point we would later find to be accurate. We found ourselves talking about much more than pottery.
Carolina’s husband spoke to us about languages. He speaks a Maya language, Celtin, and Spanish. We talked about their water supply, it comes from the pipes that run through the village and the pressure is low and they need to boil all water before consuming it. We talked about school: all of her school-age children are learning Spanish. One child even read for us in Spanish. We talked about the places we have been so far and where we are heading. Through all of this Carolina kept working. When she was finished we took pictures of each other, viewed the pictures, laughed at the way we looked, and took more pictures. We promised to send a copy of the photos. We, of course, made a few purchases here. As we walked away we kept marveling at how lucky we were to meet such great people.
We spent a little more time wandering through the village. We came across another potter making large pots with calla lily decorations. She shared information about how many she makes in a day (12) and how long she has been a potter, but did not allow us to take pictures. On our way out we again saw Carolina who informed us that the potters sell their wares to set buyers. Apparently they provide large quantities to these buyers.
Later that day when we shared our experiences at La Revolucion (a local bar) and found that others had interesting adventures as well. Carol B. visited the Jade Museum and found it to be an art historian's dream; the chronology of jade was displayed with replicas. The original jades are spread out in museums worldwide.
And just think, this was our day off! Vamos a Tuxtla-Gutierrez! What´s up Brooklyn?Antoinette, Brooklyn.
Friday, July 11, 2008
July 9th--The Road to San Cristobal
Let me begin by stressing the importance of reading ¨the manual¨to your technological devices before screwing around with them.
We awoke in Palenque to monkeys howling and birds chirping so hard I thought they might explode. I found some small mammals resembling giant guinea pigs roaming the hotel grounds. Employees called them ¨sereque.¨
We climbed on the bus around 9 and went to the Misol-Ha waterfalls. Some people walked around them. They were beautiful. Hopefully people got some good pictures because after that I made a horrific mistake. I clicked the wrong button and managed to reformat my memory card. Now I have a nice clean memory card to start taking new pictures. I looked through someone else´s manual to try to get them back, but there isn´t a troubleshooting section called ¨So you accidentally deleted 8 days of photos. . . ¨
We headed toward San Cristobal. On the way we were stopped by vendors holding strings across the road to halt. As we rode to the highlands, winding around hairpin turns, the foliage changed from lush tropical palms and flowers to coniferous forests. The clothing changed from white and light to dark, heavy sweaters and vivid colors.
The monotony of the bus ride was broken by Maryann´s observations and stories. We saw families and children out working and playing. We found that either people don´t want their picture taken by tourists on a bus or they have a funny way of waving with one finger. Jacques tells us that Chiapas is the poorest state in Mexico. We´ve learned about the Zapatista uprising in the state and we passed through the city that was central to the Zapatista movement.
We arrived at the Holiday Inn and went to see the San Cristobal de las Casas. It is cool and beautiful. It is quite touristy and has a bohemian feel. We met Janet and ate dinner at Na-Bolom. Janet came for a Fulbright 30 years ago and never left. She is a journalist. After dinner, several of us went to a local hot spot--Revolucion Bar. It was a great place to people watch.
Lessons learned today:
- I don´t like avocado and cheese sandwiches
- Don´t screw around with your camera without backing things up
- Stories about bullets are more interesting than scientific explanations
- Don´t touch strangers´napkin drawings
Emily
Perry High School
Canton, OH
Na Bolom Research Center--10 julio 2008
I'll begin today's blog entry with the "Quote of the Day" provided by one of our informative lecturers, Chip (William) Morris, Jr.: "Can you imagine members of the U. S. Army dressing up as pregnant, lactating jaguars? That's what the Maya did." Before I go into detail about how we ended up discussing pregnant, lactating jaguars, I'll give some intriguing back story. If (when?) you read the entry for July 9th, you'll notice a "What I learned" statement involving NOT looking at the napkin drawings of strangers at bars. I need to inform you, dedicated readers, that the "stranger" in question may have been the very Chip quoted above. We may never discover whether he was truly the stranger whose napkins were perused, but we do know that he was at Cafe Revolucion last night at the same time as some of our more inquisitive Fulbrighters (who will remain nameless).
Today we visited the Na Bolom Research Center in San Cristobal de las Casas where we were treated to insiders' views of Pre-Columbian Art and its connections to today's textiles, Indigenous Traditions and Migration, and the Zapatista Movement (all this while Jorge was getting our rooms re-organized at our hotel--thanks, Jorge!). One of our insiders came to Chiapas on a Fulbright & never left--she's been here for 30 years. (Friends & family members, I'll be sure to alert you if anyone on our trip is making plans for staying here!) In our first lecture, Janet Schwartz & Chip Morris talked through their extensive photo essays on the most recent findings at local ruins (included Tonina, Bonapak, and the previously visited Palenque). Key question: what came first, glyphs or textiles (and weaving)? Chip said, "Weaving came from the beginning of the world" and showed evidence of kings wearing textiles in reliefs that pre-date Mayan glyphs.
Janet and Luis Morales (of the University of Intercultural Studies in Chiapas) discussed the effects of migration on residents from San Juan Chamula and Tenejapa. Finally, Janet (a journalist for such rags as the New York Times and the Los Angeles Times) showed her photos of the Zapatista Movement since 1970, culminating with where the movement is going today.
After a substantial lunch provided at Na Bolom, Chip gave us a brief tour of the center which was founded by Frans and Trudi Blom. Trudi was quite the clothes horse (no relation to me) and had a 2-story closet; Frans was better at finding ruins than oil (he originally came to Mexico to find the latter). It was at this point in the tour that we learned about Mayan tactics for defeating neighboring tribes (which included dressing up as the aforementioned jaguars).
Finally, we cabbed our way to the Centro de Medicina Maya where we learned about herbs, midwifery, and the practices of those who practice Mayan medicine. (We also learned why not to drink Coca-Cola, which seems to have little to do with Mayan medicine....) After that, the night was ours to peruse strangers' napkin drawings or go out for a great dinner.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
July 8, Palenque
Awakened by birds and later by the screeching of the Howler Monkeys, the lush steamy jungle welcomes us to Chan-Kah. The sweat drips down my forehead as I walk to breakfast. It is hot here! Our breakfast is served overlooking the pool with wonderful Chiapas coffee, fresh fruit, and eggs. A great welcome!
We head off to Palenque just after breakfast to avoid to the heat – impossible. Palenque is one of the most important archeological sites in the region of Chiapas and Tabasco. It is from the Classic period 250 AD – 900 AD. Archeologists think 6,000 to 20,000 people lived here. It is known for its architecture, sculptures, and well-preserved glyphs. In 1997, it was declared a National Park, which means that the ruins and the jungle surrounding it are protected.
We visited many temples –
The Temple of the Inscriptions was the most important as it contained the sarcophagus of King Pakal who ruled from 603 AD to 683 AD with 900 pieces of jade buried with him including a jade mask. I was impressed with the Palace where the nobility lived. They had such luxuries as toilets and steam baths. Water was a reoccurring theme as aqueducts run through the city.
Interestingly enough, it is Maya people who still clear the land of the ruins with machetes, clean bathrooms, and sell trinkets as the tourists admire their past. Somehow, that doesn’t seem quite right.
We had the afternoon to ourselves. I went to the town of Palenque to eat and change money. The rest of the day was spent swimming and eating ice cream. It was HOT, but a good day.
Brenda, Menomonie Middle School
We head off to Palenque just after breakfast to avoid to the heat – impossible. Palenque is one of the most important archeological sites in the region of Chiapas and Tabasco. It is from the Classic period 250 AD – 900 AD. Archeologists think 6,000 to 20,000 people lived here. It is known for its architecture, sculptures, and well-preserved glyphs. In 1997, it was declared a National Park, which means that the ruins and the jungle surrounding it are protected.
We visited many temples –
The Temple of the Inscriptions was the most important as it contained the sarcophagus of King Pakal who ruled from 603 AD to 683 AD with 900 pieces of jade buried with him including a jade mask. I was impressed with the Palace where the nobility lived. They had such luxuries as toilets and steam baths. Water was a reoccurring theme as aqueducts run through the city.
Interestingly enough, it is Maya people who still clear the land of the ruins with machetes, clean bathrooms, and sell trinkets as the tourists admire their past. Somehow, that doesn’t seem quite right.
We had the afternoon to ourselves. I went to the town of Palenque to eat and change money. The rest of the day was spent swimming and eating ice cream. It was HOT, but a good day.
Brenda, Menomonie Middle School
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
July 7 - Uxmal and Sabancuy
Monday July 7th
Our journey continued today with a visit to Uxmal. The name Uxmal comes from the Mayan word "Ux," meaning harvest and "mal," meaning number of times. This refers to the place of plentiful harvests. Our phenomenal
tour guide, Antonio, led us through the complex with vast amounts of information. One fascinating point was how the Mayans devised ingenious methods for storing and extracting water from artificial underground pits. The Mayans in this area had to rely on the rainy season because they had no cenotes, water holes, as other areas of the Yucatan had and in addition, the water table was too low in this area for drilling. Each of these cisterns held enough water to supply 20-25 people for a year.
The main structure at Uxmal is the Pyramid of the Magician which stands 1
14 feet tall. It is an unusual Mayan pyramid as it has an oval shape. The stairway is flanked by two rows of twelve Chaac masks with a 13th as the entrance to the Chenes temple. This pyramid has four temples, one on top of the other. The rain god, Chaac, was very important here.
Along the way we were greeted by interesting wildlife. Numbers of iguanas were basking in the sun seemingly oblivious to the tourists. In addition, we were treated by a visit of the Mot Mot bird which has a beautiful long turquoise tail.
From the main pyramid we entered the nuns quadrangle, so named because it looked like nunnery cloisters to the explorer. Here we could see intricate stone carvings and a Mayan arch. Their arch does not use a keystone. Instead, it used a series of boot-shaped stones cantilevered one over the other.
Climbing once again we reached the governor´s palace and the tortoise temple. Our legs have truly discovered that Mayan steps are high and steep. They can present quite a challenge; however, it was worth it. The Tortoise Temple has many carved tortoises on the façade which represent long life and water to the Mayans. Sacrifices were brought here. An interesting feature of the Governor´s Palace was the top section of the front of the building. Because the top section was slanted forward, on the summer solstice the Chaac masks below are in shadow except for the noses which stick out further than the rest. Once again, we saw the mathematical expertise of the Mayans. Their calculations were quite impressive.
As we made our way back to the entrance we hurried to the gift/bookstore. You could quickly tell that a group of teachers had arrived. All the chatter and the number of purchases quickly made, certainly made it clear.
Now we board the bus, hot and sweaty, for our journey to Palenque. We rode for miles through Mexican countryside passing through small villages along the way. Men working on cars, people sitting in cantinas (bars), women walking home from markets and children playing – it was all a sight for our senses. The ride even included crossing a cow bridge and being stopped by armed guards while they walked around the bus with a wand of some type. Thankfully, we were quickly allowed to move along.
The long hours on the bus ticked by and we finally stopped for lunch at Sabancuy Beach. What better way to spend a leisurely meal than to be seated under the pavilion by the sea with our toes in the sand! A few went swimming and others walked the beach gathering treasures to take home. Ugh! It´s now back to the bus for more hours on our drive. At last we arrive at our destination of the Chan Kah resort village only to discover we had truly entered the rain forest. Vines and jungle plants greeted us everywhere. Jacques warned us to not be surprised in the morning because the Howler monkeys would wake us up with their calls. What adventures wait for us in the morning? Whatever they may be, we are so privileged to be a part of this amazing journey!
Submitted by Diane, Grade 6, St. Edwards-Epiphany School
Our journey continued today with a visit to Uxmal. The name Uxmal comes from the Mayan word "Ux," meaning harvest and "mal," meaning number of times. This refers to the place of plentiful harvests. Our phenomenal
tour guide, Antonio, led us through the complex with vast amounts of information. One fascinating point was how the Mayans devised ingenious methods for storing and extracting water from artificial underground pits. The Mayans in this area had to rely on the rainy season because they had no cenotes, water holes, as other areas of the Yucatan had and in addition, the water table was too low in this area for drilling. Each of these cisterns held enough water to supply 20-25 people for a year.The main structure at Uxmal is the Pyramid of the Magician which stands 1
14 feet tall. It is an unusual Mayan pyramid as it has an oval shape. The stairway is flanked by two rows of twelve Chaac masks with a 13th as the entrance to the Chenes temple. This pyramid has four temples, one on top of the other. The rain god, Chaac, was very important here.Along the way we were greeted by interesting wildlife. Numbers of iguanas were basking in the sun seemingly oblivious to the tourists. In addition, we were treated by a visit of the Mot Mot bird which has a beautiful long turquoise tail.
From the main pyramid we entered the nuns quadrangle, so named because it looked like nunnery cloisters to the explorer. Here we could see intricate stone carvings and a Mayan arch. Their arch does not use a keystone. Instead, it used a series of boot-shaped stones cantilevered one over the other.
Climbing once again we reached the governor´s palace and the tortoise temple. Our legs have truly discovered that Mayan steps are high and steep. They can present quite a challenge; however, it was worth it. The Tortoise Temple has many carved tortoises on the façade which represent long life and water to the Mayans. Sacrifices were brought here. An interesting feature of the Governor´s Palace was the top section of the front of the building. Because the top section was slanted forward, on the summer solstice the Chaac masks below are in shadow except for the noses which stick out further than the rest. Once again, we saw the mathematical expertise of the Mayans. Their calculations were quite impressive.
As we made our way back to the entrance we hurried to the gift/bookstore. You could quickly tell that a group of teachers had arrived. All the chatter and the number of purchases quickly made, certainly made it clear.
Now we board the bus, hot and sweaty, for our journey to Palenque. We rode for miles through Mexican countryside passing through small villages along the way. Men working on cars, people sitting in cantinas (bars), women walking home from markets and children playing – it was all a sight for our senses. The ride even included crossing a cow bridge and being stopped by armed guards while they walked around the bus with a wand of some type. Thankfully, we were quickly allowed to move along.
The long hours on the bus ticked by and we finally stopped for lunch at Sabancuy Beach. What better way to spend a leisurely meal than to be seated under the pavilion by the sea with our toes in the sand! A few went swimming and others walked the beach gathering treasures to take home. Ugh! It´s now back to the bus for more hours on our drive. At last we arrive at our destination of the Chan Kah resort village only to discover we had truly entered the rain forest. Vines and jungle plants greeted us everywhere. Jacques warned us to not be surprised in the morning because the Howler monkeys would wake us up with their calls. What adventures wait for us in the morning? Whatever they may be, we are so privileged to be a part of this amazing journey!
Submitted by Diane, Grade 6, St. Edwards-Epiphany School
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
July 6, Celestun and Uxmal
With our AstroBus once again back in commission, we departed Hotel Casa Lucia in Merida, bound for the wildlife sanctuary at Celestun. Along the way, we viewed a panorama of terrains and landscapes, mostly untouched by the usual signs of civilization. Arriving at our destination, we quickly surveyed Celestun, observing the town, its people and various buildings and businesses. The three-wheeled and covered transports that have become familiar to us were everywhere. We walked to the beach, where we boarded our own “fleet” of three outboards.
The Celestun wildlife sanctuary is home to many resident and migratory waterfowl, with pink flamingos as the “star attraction.” The water itself is an estuary of the Gulf of Mexico. Between March and August, adult flamingos fly between here and Cancun to feed on plankton for their young.
The boats docked briefly, so that we could see the petrified trees and shock-absorbing soil at one feeding site. Those of us who stayed on the boat heard our driver describe a typical Maya drink of coconut water and rum called, Cocofis.
Perched amid the tree branches, along the sandy shores and in the skies overhead were pelicans, cormorants and egrets. As we rode the choppy waters toward the stand of flamingos, our camera shutters were rapidly clicking, hoping to capture images of these bright pink birds in all their splendor.
Marcela shared an interesting tidbit about Peru’s flamingos, which are white and red. “When San Martin came to Peru,” she explained, “he said that the country’s flag was going to be red and white just like the flamingos.”
From the flamingo area, we next went through a mangrove tunnel, complete with termite hills and droves of pesky mosquitoes. We once again docked; this time so we could see a freshwater spring. Before disembarking, we literally coated ourselves in insect repellant, although its effectiveness was questionable. (Rumor has it that even Flat Stanley was itching afterward!)
Relieved to return to our boats, we rode the choppy waters toward shore. There, we perused the tables of handicrafts, including wooden parrots, flamingos and jewelry. Lunch was at La Boya, one of the local beachside restaurants. Besides the usual fare, some of us had coconut milk right from the coconut!
Following the meal, it was time to continue our journey to our next destination, Uxmal. We did make two brief stops on the way, one at a Maya home and the other at a cemetery, Cementario General. As we were leaving the latter, we noticed a funeral procession approaching. Most of the mourners were walking alongside or behind the hearse.
Back in our bus, we prepared for the long ride to The Hacienda Uxmal. The afternoon rain began to fall and we settled in to viewing several DVDs in The Soul of Mexico series. Those of us who weren’t watching were reading, talking or napping, among other things.
Rested and revived, we arrived in Uxmal around 6 p.m. We were warmly welcomed and treated to a refreshing glass of grapefruit juice. We had just enough time to check in and unload our bags, before walking to the nearby ruins at Uxmal. The light and sound show we viewed at the sight was quite a spectacle and a perfect segueway to our visit the next morning.
In response to Fulbrighter Maryann’s remarkable ability to meet and converse with the many people we have met comes this definitive quote of the day: “Candy opens any door.” – Jacques Paire.
Gail -- Teacher/Media Specialist -- Cleveland, OH
The Celestun wildlife sanctuary is home to many resident and migratory waterfowl, with pink flamingos as the “star attraction.” The water itself is an estuary of the Gulf of Mexico. Between March and August, adult flamingos fly between here and Cancun to feed on plankton for their young.
The boats docked briefly, so that we could see the petrified trees and shock-absorbing soil at one feeding site. Those of us who stayed on the boat heard our driver describe a typical Maya drink of coconut water and rum called, Cocofis.
Perched amid the tree branches, along the sandy shores and in the skies overhead were pelicans, cormorants and egrets. As we rode the choppy waters toward the stand of flamingos, our camera shutters were rapidly clicking, hoping to capture images of these bright pink birds in all their splendor.
Marcela shared an interesting tidbit about Peru’s flamingos, which are white and red. “When San Martin came to Peru,” she explained, “he said that the country’s flag was going to be red and white just like the flamingos.”
From the flamingo area, we next went through a mangrove tunnel, complete with termite hills and droves of pesky mosquitoes. We once again docked; this time so we could see a freshwater spring. Before disembarking, we literally coated ourselves in insect repellant, although its effectiveness was questionable. (Rumor has it that even Flat Stanley was itching afterward!)
Relieved to return to our boats, we rode the choppy waters toward shore. There, we perused the tables of handicrafts, including wooden parrots, flamingos and jewelry. Lunch was at La Boya, one of the local beachside restaurants. Besides the usual fare, some of us had coconut milk right from the coconut!
Following the meal, it was time to continue our journey to our next destination, Uxmal. We did make two brief stops on the way, one at a Maya home and the other at a cemetery, Cementario General. As we were leaving the latter, we noticed a funeral procession approaching. Most of the mourners were walking alongside or behind the hearse.
Back in our bus, we prepared for the long ride to The Hacienda Uxmal. The afternoon rain began to fall and we settled in to viewing several DVDs in The Soul of Mexico series. Those of us who weren’t watching were reading, talking or napping, among other things.
Rested and revived, we arrived in Uxmal around 6 p.m. We were warmly welcomed and treated to a refreshing glass of grapefruit juice. We had just enough time to check in and unload our bags, before walking to the nearby ruins at Uxmal. The light and sound show we viewed at the sight was quite a spectacle and a perfect segueway to our visit the next morning.
In response to Fulbrighter Maryann’s remarkable ability to meet and converse with the many people we have met comes this definitive quote of the day: “Candy opens any door.” – Jacques Paire.
Gail -- Teacher/Media Specialist -- Cleveland, OH
Saturday, July 5, 2008
July 5th Loltun and Ticul
We will probably remember the rain most. And the thunder and running up the stairs of the cave, Lol-tun ,to seek shelter, but that was really not the original plan for the day. But then it was a day in which original plans were not meant to be. Let’s go back. It did not take long to realize that our reliable bus driver Benito was not here at his scheduled time. So it’s 9:30 and we are for the most part ready and sitting in the lobby- but no Benito. When I first see him, he is dripping with sweat; the problem: a broken down bus. The solution: ( after some finagling) are mini vans to transport the lot of us to Ticul. So off we go. To market, to market to buy a fine pig, or chicken or corn of huipils. The ride of an hour and a half finally finds us in the market. The ride must have been somewhat torturous for Jorge who was deprived of a seat and was cramped between the door and a seat.
The market at Ticul gave a view of how the population of that city survives. Stands with bananas, guineps (chenett), guanabanas, limes and many other fruits crowded the stands. Most interesting was the corn roasted in the pibil. Pibils are ground ovens; a style to cooking still used by today’s Maya. Carol B. was fascinated by a pig head and the vendor who was selling it. As he prepared it for sale, he shaved the head with a razor. She asked and found out that the age of the pig was six months. She explained that she does not usually see such sights in Washington, D.C. The vendor seemed unimpressed with life in the United States, referring to it only as alla. His partner’s features were reminiscent of many of the Maya sculptures we saw. Like many we saw( the woman flower vendor, the vendor who sold hardware such as chicken coups, machete cases and other essential tool) , he willingly let us take his picture.
A walk through the town yielded a view of one that is not tourist ridden and one with people who were very willing to share a smile and a hello. The impression was also of a town going about its daily business: carting goods to and from, adult tricycles with large spaces in the front for carrying packages and vendors selling to their community. Examples of the ancient Maya were seen in the statues that were seen on some corners or on islands in the street.
A trip to Los Almendras restaurant satisfied our thirst for Yucatan food. The food was plentiful and tasty, though the flan was disappointing. And then to the caves,Lol-tun our Mayan guide Bernardo walked us through the caves and told stories of how the Maya used this ancient structure. The use of the caves as a place for sacrifices was not new. I am intrigued by the Caste War and the role of the Maya in that war. This topic that will take up a lot of my interest for a while especially since I was given two sources for information by a visiting professor from Allegheny University.
We end, of course, where our story began, with the rain. We had not seen such a downpour since we arrived. We could have stayed in the comforts of the cave until it subsided, but then I suppose our guides would have been asked to spend more time with us than expected. So... we ran up the steep steps and into the torrent. As we ran to shelter someone suggested that this would be an ideal time for a group photo. The perfect end to a perfectly planned day.
Antoinette - Brooklyn, fifth grade teacher
Friday, July 4, 2008
July 4th - Mayab Lectures
Flat Stanley enjoyed the day. It was a day of learning and lectures. They were very interesting. We heard from anthropologists working on some unusual projects with migration of people, altering of genetic makeup, adaptation of man over the centuries. They answered questions like:
- How everyone could have come from Africa
- How skin color changes based on the temperature and climate of a region
- Why Mexicans will risk everything to cross the border
- Where do the Maya from the Yucatan work when they cross to America
We had lunch at a fab
ulous place in Merida called Hacienda Teya. It served typical Yucatan Cuisine. It is fish, meat, or chicken cooked in banana leaves and served with corn tortillas and very hot Habenero pepper sauce. We had a sweet orange liquor for digestion called Licor de naranja agria, pamuchios, gouda cheese stuffed with sausage mixture,etc. For dessert the guide ordered several dishes so we could all sample them. The Consul joined us for lunch and was quite pleasant to talk to. She has to get involved when an American dies unexpectedly in accidents in the three states around Merida. Someone she knew died last night and it was a mess. She said that is a typical thing in Mexcio now that the laws have changed and you need a passport to come and go here too. The tourist has to drive 4 hours to Merida from Cancun and then back again.After lunch at 5 we walked for what seemed like miles to go to a folk art museum which was closed, then to another small but lovely art museum, then on to the cathedral. We are so hot! Dinner was on our own. Several ate in the hotel lobby.
Stanley had some cappachino at the restaurant.
Submitted by Carole, Madison, IN
July 3rd Big Day in the Yucatan at Chichen Itza
Man is it hot. It must be 100 in the shade and so humid. I sweat so much and seldom go to the bathroom. I am drinking lots of water and I hope that helps me avoid heat stroke. The day began with breakfast and a walk along the beach in Cancun. At the end of breakfast, we were handed a cookie by our waiter. Gail called it a "Get outta here cookie", or a new technique to tell you to leave now! Then the bill was delivered and ironically the waiter did not ask any of the older ladies to sign for it, but instead went directly for young looking, Lori, our administrator! Her natural leadership oozed forth!
We learned a lot about the Mayan kingdom and the different periods of history of Mexico. The pre classic period was from 2500 B.C. to 0. That was the time of the origins of the country and the people were primarily Olmec. These are the people that produced very large stone heads. Then the next period was called classic period from 0 to 800 A.D.. During this time the people were Toltec or Zapotec or Maya. The Post classic period went from 800 to 1519 and that was the time of Maya and Aztec in Mexico. This went into the colonial period when Spain dominated Mexico until 1850 and the modern times of the country.
We rode the bus a long time through the peninsula on the road from Cancun to Merida we stopped at Chichen Itza (It means Sacred Well of the tribe of Itza). This site was just recently named one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It was truly amazing and Rene proved to be an excellent guide. He was explaining the significance of the different temples. The one for the Sun God is the largest. It told the Maya when to plant and when to harvest their crops. It had to do with the Sun and the shadows that were cast by the temple. The Temple of War was the place where the human sacrifices took place. It was actually an honor to be sacrificed because the Maya believed in reincarnation and that type of death was a sure way to gain heaven.
The temples were originally covered with stucco and painted red , beige, an
d other wonderful colors. There was some evidence even here. Kukulcan was the feathered serpent, God of the Maya. In Aztec, it is Quetzalcoatl. There were many remarkable images of this god all over the temples. It was a rattlesnake with a feathered tail!Maya wanted to flatten their heads as a sign of nobility. So the moms would put boards on the heads of their infants and gradually screw them tighter and tighter to make the top of the head flatten out creating an oblong head shape. They also drilled pieces of jade into their teeth. They found these skulls in the well where they would toss the bones of nobles when they died. Our guide suggested that perhaps this practice contaminated the water which poisoned the drinking water and that led to the abandonment of the site. They really do not know why the Maya abandoned the cities in favor of the countryside and smaller family groupings.
The Maya played a ball game that went back to their pre classic period. The game required the players to hit the ball into a hole in a vertical wheel using only their elbows, shoulders, or knees. The rubber ball represented the sun, and was very heavy. Because it was representative of the sun to touch it with hands, head or feet would be wrong. The game could go on for days and the one who scored had to die and that ended the game.
Skulls represented power and the skulls would have been placed on sticks and pounded into the ground on a field surrounded by a wall of skulls. Some people who died there were nobles because of the shape of the head. Others were slaves without mishapen head stuctures.
There was so much to remember....Let me see, seven...it is a special number. In the game of ball, seven players take the field. The snake god, has seven tongues, the head has seven openings in it. and finally when you clap your hands in the ball court, it echoes seven times.
At night we settled into our hotel, dressed for dinner at the American Consulate and went in waving our little flags. The food served was from Fridays. The drinks ran freely, I selected Corona with lime. The bugs started to bite, Diane, from Richmond, VA provided many people with tiny citronella pins that eliminated the biting bugs almost immediately. I had a great time circulating the room and meeting the French Consulate, some businessmen, the secretary for the Governor of Yucatan and a professor from the university in San Francisco who is here to help children get ahead and go on to college. She was very interesting.
I got lost tonight after working on the blog. I walked the wrong way out of the Internet Cafe, wandered around alone for a while and then realized I needed to come back and start over to find my way. Only one problem - I did not know the name of the street, hotel or even the plaza. A policeman helped me when I explained that it was somewhere nearby, and on the same street as the Hyatt! Learn from this, always get the name of the hotel, and make sure you can speak some Spanish!
Maryann
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