Tuesday, July 15, 2008

July 15 Xochimilco, Coyoacán, Centro Histórico



Amid the bustling and cosmopolitan energy of Mexico City, lay pockets of tranquility. Today, very calming and refreshingly cool, began with a mellow cruise through Xochimilco’s causeways. The trajineras are colorful wooden boats enjoyed by tourists and locals for picnics, family gatherings and romantic excursions. We were approached by smaller boats carrying vendors hawking drinks, food and trinkets, and even one boat featuring marimba performers who entertained us for 25 pesos per song. Occasionally we also saw everyday residents of the “floating gardens,” boating to work and engaging in daily life. Our olfactory senses were alerted to one industrious peasant navigating his manure filled boat alongside us.

The calmness of our exploration continued as we then strolled through Frida Kahlo’s “Casa Azul” (Blue House) in Coyoacán. The gardens were peaceful and her artwork and collections inspiring, exemplifying Frida’s passion. It is no wonder she and husband Diego Rivera had such an important influence on contemporary art in Mexico and abroad. We also examined the Rivera murals at the National Palace, vast and vivid illustrations of his intriguing perspective of Mexico’s history.

As we perused the “zócalo,” the central plaza, we were struck by the juxtaposition of historical treasures such as the semi excavated remains of Templo Mayor layered against modern buildings, shops and restaurants heavily populated by well fashioned people. Mexico is unquestionably a land of contrasts and complexity. Our leisurely lunch at Casa de las sirenas extended from 3-5:30 pm and included some of the most luscious food we’ve experienced so far: escamoles (ant eggs), ensalada de nopales (cactus), huitlacoche (corn fungus), flor de calabaza (crepes with zucchini flower), sopa de cilantro, drinks focusing on mango and tamarindo, and the cherished la bomba-a celebration of chocolate to satiate our profound chocolate cravings (for those lucky enough to get it.)


Our decadent lunch was followed by a walk through Centro Histórico with brief stops to check out a dulceria, the famed La casa de los azulejos (House of Tile), an overwhelming bookstore (we are teachers and love books afterall!), and a peek at the Palacio de Belles Artes. Feeling the exhaustion of a day well spent and as if our heads may burst with so much to absorb, many of us were happy to finally land at the hotel after 7 pm. The brave ventured out to further explore Garibaldi Square home to a multitude of fancifully dressed mariachi bands, free flowing tequila and spontaneous dancing under the watchful eye of Jorge, our bold and witty guide.


Blogger: Amber 8th grade teacher, Plainfield, IL

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