July 11th-San Juan Chamula and Zinacantan

Friday July 11, 2008

I will preface this entire blog entry with an apology for all errors or misconceptions. I am overwhelmed with fascinating information that I have not been able to fully digest, but I’ll give a go at writing something coherent for our blog.

The day was dedicated to visiting San Juan Chamula and Zinacantan, indigenous villages on the outskirts of San Cristobal. Janet Schwartz was our guide for the day. We first arrived in San Juan Chamula and were warned against taking photographs. This town is a religious center for the Chamula Mayan Indians and they tightly control photographing of their religious practices. The town is constructed around a center market that was filled with fruits, vegetables, meat, local textiles, tourist goods, and a fair amount of Chinese imported trinkets. It was bustling with locals and tourists. We entered the church and were able to witness the fascinating combination of traditional Mayan rituals combined with Catholicism. Yes, there were many candles, prayers, drinking of coke, and neck ringing of a chicken. Janet previously explained the practice of being in charge of a patron saint (cargo) and the incredible cost associated with the task…over $10,000 US dollars. It is fascinating to see the interplay of the US economy and how it has helped to develop these communities. Young men illegally enter the US to work and through their hard labor they are able to provide financial support to their families. It was often seen in the construction of nice homes in San Juan Chamula. One very pretty blue home displayed Doric columns and imitation siding made out of cement.

Zinacantan is quite different from San Juan Chamula. This town is further up the mountain and is blessed with fertile soil that supports a local flower industry. Greenhouses dotted the landscape as we entered town. I understand this community tends to stick together and few have ventured to the US. Between flower growing and beautiful textile work the local indigenous population has stayed very connected to this community. We were taken for a tour of the church by a lovely young woman named Patrona. She wore the typical dress that Chip had so carefully explained during his lecture yesterday. We were also invited to her home to sample posh (alcohol-spiked fruit drink), coffee brewed with panela (raw sugar), and tortillas. We had the opportunity to closely watch Patrona’s mother make and grill the tortillas over a fire. Fresh tortillas are delicious, far superior to the store-bought kind I get at home. The best photo op for the day came with Kim and Jorge being dressed as traditional Mayan bride and groom. To complete the picture Jacque and Amber served as the “godparents.” I believe Kim and Jorge would be pleased to receive any wedding gifts you would like to send.

I finished off this great day by attending a jazz concert at a beautiful theatre near our hotel. The Fred Martin Quartet from California played and the house was packed. We shared a bottle of wine, rocked to the music and enjoyed a few hours of our American cultural heritage. Good night from San Cristobal de las Casas.